FAQs

1. Please check the estimated lead time on the items you have purchased. You can usually find this on the website product page or on your order confirmation. If your order is still within this time frame it should be delivered soon, however for peace of mind, we can check delivery dates for you, just give us a call.
2. Contact us

If your estimated delivery date has passed, please get in touch with our sales team and we will be happy to assist with your enquiry.

We offer either courier delivery or collection (if you would like to collect, please contact us first to make sure the product you are wishing to collect is available). Please Note - Collection is unfortunately not available from our Minehead Offices.

For larger items our standard delivery is ‘customer offloading’, however if a tail lift or HIAB delivery is required or there is an issue with access, please give us a ring to find out options available and any costs if applicable.

IMPORTANT – PLEASE READ
Please ensure that the product you are ordering from Tanks Direct is the correct size and suitable for the purpose. Special order, bespoke, or non-stock tanks are not returnable. If you order a tank and find that it is too big, too small, or not suitable for your requirements it can be expensive to return it.
Our cancellation & returns policy explains this in more detail (see Terms & Conditions).

Delivery Charges
Our shipping costs cover most of the UK - however, parts of England, Scottish Highlands and Islands including areas north of the Glasgow / Edinburgh border, Isle of Wight, Channel Islands, Isle of Man, Anglesey, Western Isles, Shetland Islands, Orkney Islands, Isles of Scilly, Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland may cost more.

Please call before ordering if the delivery postcode is listed below. There may be additional shipping costs.

AB, BT, CA, CT, DD, DG, EH, FK,G, GY, IM, IV, JE, KA, KW, KY, LD, LL, ML, PA, PH, PO 30-41 (Isle of Wight), SA, SY, TD, TN, TR, ZE

Southern Ireland
 

Looking to avoid Shipping Charges?

All our tanks are available for collection "ex works", our suppliers are based all over the UK - please call if you wish to collect.

Overseas Orders.
International orders are welcome.
Payment is by IBAN / Swift / Bic, Moneygram and letters of credit.
We regret that credit cards are not accepted for international orders.
A purchase order is required, we will then create a pro-forma invoice, tanks are ordered on clearance of funds.

If you require any additional export documentation (i.e Certificate of Origin,  commercial invoices certified by the Chamber of Commerce) you must notify us before completion of your order as we will have to invoice cost and admin charges to the order.

Please call if you have any questions. Tel: +44 (0)1643 703358

Collection is available for most items, however, not all products are available in one location. Please contact us to find out where you can collect before placing your order.

Sorry, we only deliver on weekdays.

For our larger tanks, we offer ‘Customer offloading’ delivery. This entails the customer to acquire the right manpower and/or machinery to help unload the tank/s from the delivery vehicle.

If you require assistance with offloading, we may be able to offer a tail lift (lowers the tank to the ground) or HIAB (lorry with a mounted crane to winch the tank off the delivery vehicle). Please contact us if this is required for delivery.

Unless a hi-ab delivery has been booked at additional cost, it is the customer's responsibility to offload with suitable equipment on the day of delivery and a failed delivery may result in additional charges.

We recommend installers and/or plant hire & materials for install such as excavators, aggregates etc are not booked until you are in receipt of the goods. Tanks Direct cannot be held responsible for costs incurred due to unforeseen delays, please see our terms for more details.

If you have any questions regarding your delivery please contact the Sales Team on 01643 703358.

This may be possible depending on how far your order has been processed. Please contact us as soon as you can so we can try and avoid any costs already incurred being passed onto you.

It’s always best if you can be there to check the goods before signing for them and to avoid any re-delivery charges that may apply.

For smaller orders delivered by Royal Mail or other courier services, the delivery driver will leave a card at the address with details on how to proceed with collecting from their nearest depot or arranging the re-delivery.

For larger items which are delivered by a pallet service, this may incur an additional delivery charge to re-arrange the service. Please contact our sales team if you need more information on re-arranging a delivery.

When placing your order, please write in the customer comments where you would like the delivery to be left, e.g. in the porch, behind the gate etc. If you are unable to take delivery, please give the customer sales team a ring, and they will be happy to try and rearrange the delivery to a date that suits. Failure to let us know if no one is in to take delivery, may lead to additional costs for a missed delivery. Any goods left in safe place are left at the customer's own risk. 

Some products are available on a next day service, cut off times vary. Please contact us for more details.

Each product has their own specific lead time, which is the time it takes from placing your order until it is delivered to your chosen address. This includes manufacturing and processing times. The lead times can be found on the product page.

We try to update the lead times weekly, however if the lead times changes and you have placed an order, we will contact you as soon as we can.

If you require a product sooner than the lead time advertised, please give the sales team a ring to see if we can accommodate this for you.

To place an order for a large or bulk quantity, please contact us with the product details, quantities, and required delivery address and we would be happy to quote for you.

We can provide quotations for any of our products or bespoke products. Please provide us with the following so we can quote correctly –

Billing and shipping address, if different

Contact name and number

Purchase order, if applicable.

We aim to respond within 24 hours, during working hours, for the request sent, however bespoke items can take up to 48 hours.

There is no minimum quantity requirement for the majority of our products. However, if any of our products require a minimum quantity, it will be clearly stated on product page before purchasing.

Our customer sales team would be happy to place an order over the phone for you, along with answering any question you may have regarding our products.

If you are experiencing trouble with placing an order on our website, please contact with our sales team, who will be happy to assist with your requests.

This may be possible depending on how far your order has been processed. Please contact us as soon as you can so we can try and avoid any costs already incurred being passed onto you.

If you receive a faulty item or an item damaged on delivery, please take photos of the issue and email us at sales@tanks-direct.co.uk. One of the team will respond as soon as possible.

You may receive more than one delivery for different items in your order. To check this please contact our sales team.

Payment can be made via bank transfer using the details shown on your invoice, by cheque, or by credit/debit card online.

We are also happy to take card payments over the phone, call our friendly sales team on 01643 703358.

We accept all major credit and debit cards, plus BACS payment or cheque.

Your order will start to be processed as soon as it is received, if you wish to add items or change any part of your order, please contact us as soon as possible and we will try our best to accommodate this for you.

We will always aim to match or even offer a better price against any genuine quote. We can’t guarantee we can beat all prices; we will however do our very best to try.

Please contact us via email sales@tanks-direct.co.uk or by phone 01643 703358 and we will be able to send a copy of your invoice for you.

If you wish to return goods, please complete the form by following the link on this page to provide further information.

Once your request is approved, a valid Returns Authorisation Number (RAN) will be issued to initiate the returns process along with information on how & where to return your order along with any costs involved.

Please DO NOT return any goods without this authorisation. Goods cannot be accepted without this.

Returns are not accepted at our Minehead Office, please wait until we contact you before returning any goods. 

Returns Form

Unfortunately, we cannot exchange goods once your order has been delivered. The returns process above should be followed and a new order for the required goods should be placed.

Your refund will be processed as soon as we receive confirmation that your goods have been successfully delivered back to the correct warehouse in re-saleable condition.

If you would like to check if your returned goods have been received back, please contact us and we can advise further.

Restocking and administration fees of up to 30% + VAT of the total order value may be chargeable to our business customers only.

If you receive a message that says your email address/password isn't recognised, there's a few things worth checking:

• Make sure you are using the same email address and password you registered with.
• If you can't remember your password, click on the 'forgotten password' link on the sign in page. You'll be prompted to enter your email address and we'll send you an email with a link that will allow you to create a new password for your account.

If after this you still can't sign in, contact our Customer service department giving as much detail as you can about the issue, including screen shots of any error message you get and what you've done so far to try to resolve it.

Sometimes we will not be able to give a price on site due to a number of reasons including it being a custom product.  If no price is shown, please contact our customer service department via email or phone and they will be able to get a price from our suppliers for you as quickly as possible

To sign up to be an account customer please navigate to Trade customers at the top of the home page.  This will then present you with a trade registration form to complete.

To sign in use the Login link at the top of the page then sign in with your account credentials.  This will then bring you to your account and navigate to ‘My details’ once here you will be able to edit your details then press update.

If you have any queries regarding your statements, please contact our customer service department via email or telephone and they will be happy to assist you.

An online account, will offer a number of benefits to you including …

• Easy access to your account.
• See your history or orders in one place.
• Ability to place online orders 24 hours a day at a time to suit you.
• Subject to successful credit checks, it may be possible to open a credit account if required.

We also offer Free technical site visits for certain products. In situations, where help might be required to correctly size a unit for a wastewater solution, we would ask our suppliers to make contact with you directly to discuss your requirements and arrange a visit if required.

Here is the link to register for an online account https://www.tanks-direct.co.uk/register.

Please feel free to contact the Tanks Direct sales office should you have any questions/enquiries on 01643 703358 or email sales@tanks-direct.co.uk

A bund is a container which can hold liquids that prevent leaks and spillage from tanks and pipes.

The regulations state that a bund must hold 110% of the amount of liquid in your tank. If you choose to have an external bund rather than a bunded tank, the important thing is to size it correctly for the tank contained in the bund to hold 110% liquid and then keep it covered so that rainwater does not fill the bund.

When multiple tanks share a bund, the capacity is based on the largest tank.

We offer a wide range of tanks suitable for boats. Whether its for drinking water, waste water or where space is an issue, flexible water tanks. Our boat storage tanks and containers, are made from a high quality, durable polyethylene and are an ideal storage solution for use on boats. Available in a variety of shapes and capacities, ranging from 40 litres to 300 litre.

We offer a small range of tanks which are suitable for keeping fish in, however some of our fish tanks are designed as fish holding tanks for short periods of time. 

If you require more guidance on which tanks might be suitable, please give our Sales team a ring.

We would be happy to send you the relevant information regarding the product you are interested. Please send us an email or call us with the information you require and we will endeavour to do our best to answer your questions or contact the manufacturer for the information.

All our products come with a manufacturers warranty. To see how long the warranty is for a certain product, please go to the product data sheet or contact us for more information.

If a warranty claim is required, please let us know the order number, images and descriptions of the fault, where we would be happy to forward this onto the manufacturer for you.

As we are an online business, we do not have a store to be able to view the products. You can however view most items before you buy, not all products are available in just one location so please contact us to find out where you can view.

Alternatively, you can download the product brochures for each product for more information or contact us if the information you require is not visible.

Water tanks can be classified as ‘potable’ or 'Wholesome water' and ‘non potable’. If you are storing clean water for human consumption, whether it be for drinking, prepping food or cleaning dishes etc, then a potable water tank is what you are after. All potable (wholesome water) tanks must conform to the WRAS (Water Regulations Advisory Scheme) so that the liquid is safe for human consumption.

Non-potable tanks are for the safe storage of non-drinking water or for ‘not suitable’ for human consumption, in many different environments and applications. Non-potable tanks can be used in applications like rainwater harvesting, irrigation, agriculture & horticulture and commercial purposes where mains water is not available.

The difference in classification between the two comes from the materials used during the manufacturing process, specifically the type of plastic used to line the inside of the tank which comes into contact with the contained water. Non potable tanks are more porous, making it easier for the bacteria to grow and can sometimes let off gases which can contaminate the water. The WRAS approved material lines the inside of the tank, making the tank fit for human consumption, either ingested or used on the skin.

The majority of our water tanks come with an outlet as standard. We can offer a range of water tanks where the tanks can either ‘Drilled’ or ‘Undrilled’. ‘Drilled’ meaning allowing water to escape from the tank via the outlet, whereas ‘Undrilled’ is when the outlet will remain sealed, preventing liquid from coming out and ensuring the contents of the tank is only touching plastic.

If the position of the outlet is required in an alternative position to the standard one offered or extra to the one positioned, we can offer a plastic Fusion socket. This can be welded anywhere on the tank using a drawing supplied by us, positions marked out by you, then fitted by the manufacturer.   

Plain tanks (with no outlets) can also be offered.

If you require a plastic fusion socket or a plain tank, then please contact our Customer Service Team, who will be happy to help with your requirements.

We offer a range of tap kits, each displaying the size of the hosetail and the outlet size the kit will suit. Tap Kit 5 (TPK5) is the best solution if you require a garden hose to be fitted. Our range of Hosetail kits allows you to attach a hose or pipe to the tank, leak-free. They are designed for continuous flow and come in varying sizes depending on the outlet.

All our tap kits come with a Jubilee clip and PDFE tape for that secure fit.

Baffled water tanks are tanks with an intergral wall system, which is primarily designed to strengthen and support the structure of the tank, when the tank is full of water.

Due to the structure of the baffles they can also be used for transporting water. The Baffles distrupt the movement of water, from surging from one side to the other. However, if you are transporting water, water tanks can be extremely hazardous when transporting large volumes of water. Please make sure the water tanks are installed and secured correctly, by a suitable qualified person before transportation. Baffled water tanks are an ideal solutions for car valeters, window cleaners or anyone who has to transport liquids using plastic water storage tanks and containers.

A potable water tank or 'Wholesome water tank' is suitable for storing drinking water and must adhere to specific government regulations. A non-potable water tank stores water that can be used for other purposes like flushing toilets and watering plants, but is not safe for human consumption.

All potable water tanks, like these GRP tanks, must be submitted to the WRAS for testing, approval and accreditation and be approved in line with the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999. Potable water tanks are usually constructed from food-grade polyethylene and finished with a smooth interior to protect against bacteria growth. Our potable water tanks come in a wide range of capacities, from 4 litres to 30,000 litres.

Non-potable tanks store water that can be used for plumbing purposes, such as flushing the toilet and in washing machines, as well as for gardening. They are often used in industrial and commercial premises, horticultural and market garden applications, agricultural irrigation and civil engineering situations where mains water is not available. In fact, non-potable water tanks are suitable for any application where the water or liquid stored will not be consumed by humans or animals.

The hot water tank size you’ll need for four people will depend entirely on your hot water usage habits. To get an accurate answer, you’ll need to calculate how much hot water your household of four would use during its busiest time. If you regularly use several hot water appliances at the same time each day, you’ll want to take that into consideration. But if you’ll rarely be using more than one hot water appliance at a time, a smaller tank would be adequate.

If you’re just looking for an estimate, a simple rule of thumb is to allow between 40 litres for each occupant in the house – so as a very rough guide, a household of four people may use around 160 litres of hot water. However, this should be used as a very general guide and may not accurately match your hot water needs.

Getting the correct sized hot water tank is important. If your tank is too small for your needs, you will keep running out of water. If your tank is too large, you will waste money as your system will have to work harder to keep a larger amount of water hot – even though you’re not using it. It’s best to find a tank size that comfortably covers your needs, so you’re not left short, but also not paying for what you won’t use.

Although there may only be two of you using the hot water tank, you’ll want to think about your water usage habits. Do you like to take long showers? And do you have a large shower head that will increase the demand on your hot water system? If you regularly use your dishwasher or washing machine, this should also be taken into account.

For a very rough estimate, a simple rule of thumb is to allow between 40 litres for each occupant. This equates to approximately 80 litres for a two-person household. However, this should be used as a very rough guide and may not accurately match your hot water needs.

At Tanks Direct, we stock a range of different water tanks. From rainwater harvesting to wastewater treatment, there are water tanks designed for all types of water storage. The type of water tank you need will depend on what you plan to use it for.

If you are storing drinking water, you will need a potable water tank, like these GRP tanks. They are suitable for storing clean water that is fit for human consumption, prepping food and cleaning dishes. They meet government approved standards and regulations for the safe storage of drinking water. Non-potable water tanks store water that can be used for other purposes like flushing toilets and watering plants, but is not safe for human consumption.

If you’re storing hazardous materials or liquids, check out our range of IBCs (Intermediate Bulk Containers) or if you’re working in the agricultural, farming or horticulture sector, you may want to have a look at our agricultural water tanks that are built to withstand the changeable outdoor environment. Our rainwater harvesting tanks are great for collecting and storing rainwater, that can then be used to flush your toilets and wash your clothes.

We have many more types of water tanks available at Tanks Direct. If you’d like any help and advice choosing your water tank, don’t hesitate to contact our friendly team.

There are many factors that can affect how long a water tank should last:

Usage

The purer the water you’re storing in your tank, the longer your tank is likely to last. For example, if you’re storing salt water, there is a much higher risk of corrosion and damage to the tank. Clean water is much less likely to damage your tank.

Materials

Most water tanks will be made from either plastic or metal. Plastic tanks are non-biodegradable, so it shouldn’t break down over time. For this reason, you should use a specialist waste disposal company at the end of your tank’s life. A good quality polymer plastic water tank should last between ten and twenty years. Metal water tanks are usually made from steel, which can be melted down and recycled at the end of its life. A steel tank should last over 30 years.

Location

Where your tank is located could also affect its lifespan. If your water tank is stood in water, it could damage it, so try to ensure your tank is placed on a solid foundation. The UV treatment on plastic tanks can also be reduced if exposed to long hours of direct sunlight.

Water tank installation and replacement costs can vary greatly based on several factors. 

First, you’ll want to consider the cost of the tank itself. The bigger the tank, the bigger the price tag. The material the tank is made of will also impact the cost, with metal water tanks costing slightly more than plastic ones.

When it comes to the installation, underground water tanks generally cost more to install than above ground water tanks. Underground water tanks need an excavation crew to dig out the area where the tank will go, so you will need to factor in the cost of labour to do this. If you are installing a cold-water storage tank in an attic, the biggest challenge is getting the tank inside the loft through the loft hatch and removing the old tank. Ease and accessibility will play an enormous factor in the final cost.

Finally, you will need to consider the cost of a plumber to connect the pipes. If you’re wanting any additional add-ons for your water tank, such as booster pumps to increase the water pressure, there may be additional costs to consider.

We recommend consulting your local council and homeowners' association to ensure that your water tank installation meets all the required guidelines.

Choosing the right weight for your marquee is crucial for ensuring its stability and safety, especially in windy conditions. There are several factors to consider determining the ideal weight for your specific situation. The first is the size and type of marquee you are using. A larger marquee naturally requires more weight to hold it down effectively. Additionally, different marquee styles have varying wind resistance. Pop-up gazebos typically have a smaller footprint and lower profile, requiring less weight compared to a spacious marquee with high walls and a peaked roof. The weight required may vary depending on the surface the marquee is placed on too. A hard, stable surface like concrete requires less weight compared to softer ground like grass or sand. Soft ground offers less resistance to wind, so additional weight is necessary to compensate and prevent the marquee from being lifted or shifted. If you're setting up your marquee in a calm and sheltered location, the weight requirements can be slightly relaxed. However, if you anticipate wind gusts or if your location is prone to strong winds, you'll need to factor in a higher weight capacity to ensure the marquee remains secure and doesn't pose any safety risks.

Plastic water tanks can be made of lots of different materials, however the majority of tanks we offer are made from either a medium density polyethylene (MDPE) or a high density polyethylene (HDPE).

UK hose pipe diameters range from ½” to ¾” inch diameters. The majority of standard size garden hoses are 1/2” BSP, however we do offer accessories for the ½3/4” hose, if required.

There are three types of water bowsers: highways water bowsers, site water bowsers, and plant watering bowsers.

When you're responsible for maintaining the highways, a highway water bowser is an essential piece of equipment. These purpose-built water tanks are designed to efficiently store and transport large volumes of water, making them ideal for dust suppression and road surface maintenance. With their robust construction and manoeuvrability, highway water bowsers can easily access different areas of road to keep them in optimal condition.

Site water bowsers are portable water tanks designed to provide a steady and reliable water supply on site – right where you need it most. With their compact and manoeuvrable design, site water bowsers can be easily positioned in tight spaces or moved around the site as the project progresses. Their sturdy construction ensures durability, even in demanding environments, making them a dependable tool for dust suppression, concrete mixing, and equipment cleaning.

Perfect for tending to a garden, nursery, or any green space that demands consistent watering, plant watering bowsers are specialised water tanks that are purpose-built to meet the unique needs of plant irrigation and nurturing. With their large water capacities and precision dispensing systems, plant watering bowsers allow you to deliver the right amount of water directly to your plants, promoting healthy growth and minimising water wastage. Their easy-to-use features, such as adjustable nozzles and spray patterns, ensure you can tailor the watering process to suit different plant types and sizes.

Water bowsers provide a reliable and portable water supply wherever you need it. Whether you're on a construction site, agricultural field, or at a remote location, water bowsers ensure access to water without the need for a fixed water connection. Their mobility and ease of transportation make them essential for emergency situations and disaster relief efforts, ensuring a water source is readily available when it's most needed.

Water bowsers contribute to water conservation and efficient water usage. Equipped with high-quality valves and outlets, they enable controlled dispensing of water, minimising wastage, and optimising water distribution. This feature is particularly beneficial during water scarcity, where every drop counts. Additionally, water bowsers can be fitted with various accessories, such as spray nozzles or hoses, making them suitable for a wide range of applications, from dust suppression and irrigation to equipment cleaning.

Furthermore, investing in a water bowser can lead to cost savings and increased productivity. By having your own water supply on-site, you can avoid the expense of water deliveries or the inconvenience of relying on external sources. For agricultural purposes, water bowsers ensure timely and efficient irrigation, leading to healthier crops and improved yields. In construction and industrial settings, having a readily available water source can enhance operational efficiency and reduce downtime.

The need for planning permission for an underground water tank depends on various factors, and it's important to be aware of the specific regulations in your area. Typically, if the underground water tank is considered a "permitted development" you may not require planning permission. However, there are key considerations to keep in mind.

If your property is in a designated area, such as a conservation area or national park, there may be stricter regulations regarding construction, which could affect installing your underground water tanks. It's advisable to check with your local planning authority to determine if there are any specific rules or restrictions that apply to your property.

Smaller tanks for personal use are less likely to require planning permission, while larger tanks that could significantly impact your property or the surrounding area may trigger the need for approval. The specific size thresholds can vary by region, so it's crucial to consult with local authorities or planning experts.

Tanks used for rainwater harvesting, garden irrigation, or other non-commercial, non-industrial purposes are generally subject to fewer regulations than tanks used for more extensive operations or purposes. If you plan to use the tank for commercial or industrial applications, additional permits and regulations may apply.

The cost of installing an underground water tank can vary significantly, depending on several factors. Smaller tanks designed for residential use will generally cost less than larger tanks intended for commercial or industrial applications. The material and type of tank you choose will also play a significant role in cost. Expect to pay more for high-quality, long-lasting tanks.

The method and complexity of installation can greatly affect the cost. Installing an underground tank may require excavation, additional site preparation, backfilling, and proper sealing. If you're planning to install the tank yourself, you might save on labour costs, but it's essential to ensure that the work meets safety and environmental standards. If your property has challenging terrain, rocky soil, or other obstacles, the installation cost may increase. Access to your property, as well as any necessary permits or inspections, can also contribute to the overall expense.

Additional features, such as filtration systems, pumps, and monitoring equipment, can add to the cost too. These components can enhance the functionality and efficiency of your underground water tank but come with their own price tags.

We’d advise obtaining multiple quotes from reputable installers and account for any additional costs such as maintenance, ongoing water quality testing, and compliance with local regulations. By doing so, you can get a more accurate estimate of the total cost to install an underground water tank that meets your requirements.

Placing the tank close to where you'll need the water reduces the need for extensive piping and minimises energy loss from pumping water over long distances. The tank should be installed in an area where it can be reached easily for any necessary repairs, inspections, or routine maintenance, and its location should allow for proper ventilation and access points to ensure safe entry when required.

Consider the water table level, as you'll want to avoid placing the tank in an area prone to flooding. Additionally, in areas with frost or extreme cold temperatures, it's advisable to install the tank below the frost line to prevent freezing. The soil type can also influence the tank's installation, as some soils may require more significant reinforcement to support the tank's weight.

Be sure to check with your local planning authority for any building or environmental regulations that might dictate where the tank can be placed. There may be specific setback requirements from property lines or structures, which could affect the tank's location on your property.

The ideal depth for an underground water tank depends on several factors, including local climate conditions and the purpose of the tank. In general, underground water tanks are typically installed at a depth substantial enough to help protect the tank from temperature fluctuations, prevent freezing in colder climates, and ensure stability. It is crucial to install the tank below the frost line to prevent the water from freezing. The frost line varies by location, so it's essential to consult with local authorities and professionals to determine the correct depth for your area. Installing the tank below this level ensures that the water remains unfrozen, maintaining the tank's integrity and preventing potential damage. If the water table is high in your area, it's important to ensure the tank is installed deep enough to prevent it from floating during periods of high groundwater. Additionally, the soil type may influence the tank's installation, as certain soils might require more reinforcement to support the tank's weight at a specific depth.

For rainwater harvesting or irrigation purposes, the tank can often be placed shallower, while tanks used for potable water may require deeper installation to meet water quality standards and ensure water safety.

IBC stands for intermediate bulk container. They are large, portable tanks designed to store and transport liquids and semi-liquids. Available in a wide range of capacities from 600 to 1,000 litres, IBC tanks are widely used in various industries to store moderate to large quantities of substances.

Their stackable design allows for efficient use of space, making them perfect for both storage and transportation purposes. Additionally, IBCs often come equipped with pallet bases, making them compatible with forklifts and other handling equipment, easing the process of loading and unloading. IBCs are popular across industries dealing with food and beverages, chemicals, and agriculture, where the safe and efficient storage and movement of substances is paramount.

Always make sure you are familiar with the correct handling procedures and adhere to industry standards. Regular inspections and maintenance of IBCs will help prevent potential leaks or damages, ensuring the substances they hold are secure. When selecting your IBC, consider the materials they are made of and their compatibility with the substances you intend to store or transport.

IBC tanks are not inherently designed or intended for potable water use. Our IBCs are typically made from materials like high-density polyethylene (HDPE) or metal, and they are primarily used for storing and transporting non-toxic liquids, chemicals, and granulated materials. They are not specifically manufactured to meet the strict requirements for storing and transporting potable water.

While some IBC tanks may have been previously used for food-grade or non-toxic substances, this does not automatically make them suitable for potable water storage. The key concern lies in the potential for contamination or chemical residue from previous contents. Without proper cleaning, sanitisation, and certification, using an IBC tank for potable water can pose health risks.

If you intend to use an IBC tank for storing drinking water, it is essential to verify its suitability and safety. Look for IBC tanks explicitly labelled as "potable" or "food-grade". Alternatively, consider using purpose-built water storage containers to ensure the safety of the water you intend to consume.

To safely fill an IBC first make sure that the pallet, cage and bottle and valve are suitable for use with the intended product. Ensure that the valve is securely tighten to the inner bottle and that the valve is closed and that the drip cap is secured and tightened. Check that the inside of the bottle is clean. When hot  filling product  do not  exceed 65°C. When bottom  filling make sure that  the vents are functioning correctly or open the top cap.  Do not over fill the IBC.  After filling, if the product has a UN number, ensure that the lid seal is correctly  positioned and tighten the screw cap to 70-80 Newton/Meters.

Do not lift IBCs from the top frame. Ensure that the fork truck tines are fully inserted under the IBC before lifting. Ensure that the vehicle floor is in good condition and free of all nails etc. that could puncture the IBC. Always transport IBCs with the correct labelling attached to the ID Plate.

Always secure IBCs to prevent possible movement during transit.

If you would like to attach a garden hose to your IBC- HFUD/2063 would be the adaptor required. Warm the hose to help in pushing the hose onto the adaptors barb, if possible raise the IBC (on wooden pallets) to assist with gravity flow

However if a 2 inch male BSP is required then the  016136 + 1069497 would be recommended. For those who wish to attach other items to the IBC valve, this adaptor turns the valve’s buttress thread into a female 2 inch BSP fitting more common here in the UK

If a 1 inch Male BSP is what you are after then the  31PB24 is the right choice, however if you require a 1” female BSP then 31PN15C is he right adaptor.

If you wish to fit a 1” Male or 1” Female BSP (as mentioned above) - 31PB24 or 31PN15C to an IBC then a 016136 & 1069497 is required.

Yes, depending on the pallet type, our IBCs can be stacked as follows whether empty or full:

MX IBCs - with metal or plastic pallets - Up to 4 High (with a maximum SG of 1.6)

SX IBCs - with metal pallets - Up to 4 High (with a maximum SG of 1.6)

LX IBCs - with wooden or plastic pallets - Up to 3 High (with a maximum SG of 1.4)

The lifespan of IBC tanks can vary depending on several factors. The duration of their functionality will be influenced by the materials they are made from, the quality of construction, and how well they are maintained. Generally, IBC tanks made from high-quality materials like stainless steel or robust plastics such as HDPE can last anywhere from 5 to 20 years or more with proper care.

To extend the longevity of your IBC tank, you should implement regular inspections and maintenance routines. Check for signs of wear, corrosion, or damage, and address any issues promptly. Keep the tanks clean and free from residue, especially if they have been used to store chemicals or other substances. Additionally, store the IBC tanks in a suitable environment, away from extreme temperatures or harsh weather conditions that could deteriorate the materials over time.

When using IBC tanks for storing liquids, it's essential to follow the manufacturer's guidelines and ensure they are not exposed to conditions that could compromise their structural integrity. Regularly assess the condition of the seals and closures to prevent leaks and spills. By taking a proactive approach to maintenance and adhering to safety protocols, you can maximise the lifespan of your IBC tank and get the most out of your investment.

A GRP tank is a tank made with Glass Reinforced Plastic (GRP). They are renowned for their remarkable strength-to-weight ratio, achieved through a construction process that weaves tiny glass fibres into a web-like structure, before being fused with a special resin and catalyst. This creates a rock-solid composite material that can handle serious pressure and bumps. GRP tanks are also great at resisting corrosion. Unlike old metal tanks that rust, GRP naturally resists most chemicals and weather elements. Unlike some plastics that degrade under constant sun exposure, GRP tanks boast exceptional UV resistance, making them ideal for outdoor storage applications without worrying about cracks or weakening.

While GRP tanks excel at water storage, their applications extend far beyond that. They can be used for safe containment of various chemicals, fuels, and even food products due to their non-contaminating properties. At Tanks Direct, we only stock the highest quality GRP tanks that are built to stand the test of time. Unlike some plastic tanks that get brittle over time, our GRP tanks stay strong and reliable for years. Plus, their smooth, non-porous surface makes cleaning and maintenance a breeze.

Fully WRAS approved.

Most GRP tanks are supplied fully pre-insulated with PU foam fully encapsulated within the GRP laminate, GRP tanks come in a wide range of standard sizes and can also be supplied bespoke to suit your specific size and configuration requirements.

An AG type airgap provides mains water protection from fluid category 1-4 with standard lid arrangement for an inlet float valve fitted in the body of the tank, and an AB type air gap, also known as category 5, is when a raised float valve housing is fitted with a spill over weir in addition to the overflow in the body of the tank.

1 & 2 piece tanks are available from 90 to 12,000 litres, sectional tanks can be supplied from 125 to 2,000,000 litres. Usually where access permits a 1 piece can be used without any assembly needed, if access is restricted a 2 piece tank can be installed and the top and bottom halved bolted together on site. Sectional tanks are for where access restrictions or other conditions deny the installation of one and two piece tanks. They comprise of individual bolt-up panels which are assembled on site.

A float valve will usually be sized to suit your incoming mains water supply, so if you have a 25 mm incoming mains you will need a 1” float valve. If we supply the float valve with your tank we will size and supply the overflow to suit this.

The Water Regulation Advisory Scheme sets legal requirements for the design, installation, operation and maintenance of plumbing systems, water fittings and water-using appliances. These Regulations and Bye laws apply in all types of premises supplied, or to be supplied with water by a water company. All of our insulated GRP tanks are fully WRAS approved, so can be connected to a mains cold water supply. These regulations do not apply where a property uses a private water supply and does not have a supply of water from a water company.

Our GRP tanks are usually supplied without any connections, as many customers supply and fit their own. However we can supply a comprehensive range of items including inlet float valves, outlet connections and other fittings to suit your individual application. Please contact us to discuss or request a quote for your requirements.

If you require a booster pump, you must fit a break tank to the incoming mains water supply to connect to the pump set. Our GRP tanks are ideal for break tanks. We can supply a wide range of booster sets where a break tank is needed.

Yes, we can supply a quote for cleaning existing tanks. We can also arrange to clean and disinfect newly installed tanks as part of the supply and assembly service on all new 1, 2 & sectional tanks.

The benefits of purchasing onsite assembly for your sectional water storage tank, you will have experienced engineers onsite to assemble your water storage tank, All engineers have valid CSCS cards , asbestos awareness training and certification , confined space training and certification.

We have a national coverage service assembling tanks day in day out & engineers are fully experienced in their field of works

You should have peace of mind that all engineers are solely employed by the tank manufacturer directly and are educated to understand all water regulations in accordance with WRAS and the current water regulations guide & will ensure that your tank installation is meeting all current regulations to save any potential implications post install.

Our engineers will check the whole area including the base to make sure that the environment meets all required criteria to carry out a successful & safe assembly. Engineers will also drill & fit any connections purchased with the tank providing a representative onsite can determine the location that these connections should be fitted.

Not only will you take away the peace of mind that your tank has been assembled to a professional standard, you will also have a fully guaranteed tank which will cover all components & the assembly itself for a full 12 month period from the date of assembly.

By selecting the onsite assembly option, you must agree & ensure that all tank components will be taken to the area where the tank is to be assembled prior to the engineers arrival to site.

Once the assembly is complete, engineers will ask your nominated site contact to check the assembly & sign to confirm that they are happy with the works. Your site contact will be left with a copy of this paperwork which will advise that you must fill the 10 days of the assembly & send evidence of this over to a specific email address, this is very important to do this in order to validate your warranty.

We understand you want a tank that can withstand the elements and years of use without succumbing to wear and tear. That’s why we offer a wide range of GRP tanks, renowned for their exceptional lifespan. Their impressive durability stems from their unique construction. Unlike traditional metal tanks that can rust, GRP tanks have a durable composite structure. Glass fibres, woven into a strong internal network, are infused with a specially formulated resin and catalyst. This creates a remarkably resilient material that resists pressure, impact, and the detrimental effects of time.

While a precise lifespan can vary depending on specific usage and environmental factors, GRP tanks are generally estimated to last for a minimum of 25 years. Many GRP tanks, with proper care and maintenance, can even exceed that timeframe, providing dependable service for well over three decades. This extended lifespan makes GRP tanks a cost-effective choice in the long run, eliminating the need for frequent replacements.

At Tanks Direct, we source our GRP tanks from reputable manufacturers who prioritise exceptional craftsmanship. These tanks are designed and built to endure the demands of everyday use. The smooth, non-porous surface of GRP tanks simplifies cleaning and maintenance, further contributing to their extended lifespan.

GRP tanks are renowned for their unmatched strength-to-weight ratio. This advantageous characteristic is achieved through a unique construction process. Glass fibres are woven into a web-like structure, creating a framework that is then infused with a specially formulated resin and catalyst. This allows GRP tanks to withstand significant pressure and forceful impacts, ensuring the safe and secure containment of liquids. While they excel at water storage, GRP tanks boast non-contaminating properties, making them ideal for the safe containment of various chemicals, fuels, and even food products.

Unlike conventional metal tanks that are susceptible to rust and deterioration over time, GRP tanks are resilient against a multitude of chemicals and the harsh effects of weather. This inherent resistance allows for the safe storage of a wide variety of substances, including rainwater for your garden to potent industrial liquids used in various manufacturing processes. You can rest assured that your GRP tank will maintain its structural integrity for years to come.

While plastic tanks tend to become brittle over time, GRP tanks retain their remarkable strength and structural integrity for decades – plus the smooth, non-porous surface simplifies the cleaning and maintenance process. This minimises downtime and ensures optimal functionality over an extended lifespan.

GRP (Glass Reinforced Plastic) and MDPE (Medium-Density Polyethylene) tanks are both popular options, but they have key differences. GRP tanks are known for their impressive strength-to-weight ratio. This strength comes from its unique build. Glass fibres are woven into a web-like structure, then fused with a special resin for a rock-solid composite. This makes GRP tanks ideal for long-term use, lasting well over 25 years with proper care. MDPE tanks, on the other hand, are typically lighter than GRP. However, they might not be as strong, especially for larger sizes that need extra support to avoid bending. While MDPE tanks offer good chemical resistance, it might not be suitable for all substances compared to GRP's exceptional resistance. GRP tanks can be moulded into various shapes and sizes to fit your needs, and even coloured for aesthetics or safety regulations. MDPE tanks, however, are generally limited in shapes and colour options. Both GRP and MDPE tanks are easy to clean due to their smooth surfaces. However, GRP's longer lifespan makes it a more cost-effective option in the long run, even though it has a higher initial price tag compared to MDPE. MDPE tanks, while affordable upfront, might need replacement sooner due to their potential for UV degradation and shorter lifespan.

A flat well-drained location is the ideal choice of a site that should be free from rocks, stones, tree stumps or any other sharp objects that may chafe or puncture the tank. On rough or stony ground sharp objects should be removed and ideally a layer of sand laid to provide a base. Maximum care must be taken to avoid placing tanks on ground having a cross slope as the tank is liable to “roll away” when being filled.

Not always, if the ground is free from debris and sharps then you can use these tanks without a ground sheet however, we do recommend using a ground sheet to prolong the life of the bladder tank

This can be done from the water mains or through a pump with the relevant connector fitted to attach to the bladder tank. This must start slowly (up to max 490 litres per minute) then increased to a maximum of 1,000 litres per minute dependent on tank capacity

This can be done by gravity or pumped, the tank may have to be lifted slightly to empty any remaining liquid

Our bladder tanks are quite easy to maintain. The surface should kept be clean of debris and washed down occasionally. The inside can be cleaned through a small hatch using a hose pipe then drained away

Small cuts and abrasions can be repaired using our repair kit. Larger cuts/splits may have to be repaired at our factory (for a fee)

PVC bladder tanks can store most liquids except fuels and certain acids, this requires a special material so please inquire. We can manufacture a bladder tank to store pretty much any liquid but please check with us regarding your specific application

A well-maintained bladder tank can last anywhere from five to ten years or more. The flexible bladder, often made from materials like PVC, polyurethane, or rubber, is resilient and designed to withstand repeated expansions and contractions without compromising its integrity. Regular inspections for signs of wear, tear, or damage, such as punctures or leaks, is crucial for identifying issues early on. Following proper cleaning procedures between uses helps prevent the accumulation of debris or contaminants that could affect the bladder's material over time.

Exposure to extreme temperatures, harsh chemicals, or prolonged sunlight can accelerate the deterioration of the materials. Proper storage, away from direct sunlight and in a controlled environment, contributes to preserving the tank's overall quality. Similarly, adhering to recommended usage guidelines and avoiding overfilling the tank helps prevent unnecessary stress on the bladder and extends its operational life. Tanks with reinforced seams, reinforced corners, and durable outer shells are more likely to withstand the demands of frequent use and challenging environments. When considering bladder tanks for your specific application, be sure to consult with manufacturers or suppliers to understand the expected lifespan based on your usage requirements and to receive guidance on proper maintenance practices.

Bladder tanks are designed to provide a flexible and collapsible solution for storing and transporting water in a space-efficient and convenient manner. Bladder tanks are particularly valuable in situations where rapid deployment and mobility are crucial. The flexible bladder within the tank allows it to expand or contract based on the volume of water stored inside, ensuring efficient use of space. This makes bladder tanks ideal for emergency response scenarios, remote construction sites, agriculture, and firefighting efforts, where a quick and temporary liquid storage solution is necessary.

The sealed, flexible bladder serves as a barrier between the stored water and external elements, reducing the risk of contaminants entering the liquid. This makes bladder tanks suitable for applications where maintaining the purity and integrity of the water is essential, such as in drinking water storage. Their lightweight construction allows for convenient mobility, making them an excellent choice for temporary liquid storage needs in diverse environments. Whether it's establishing a temporary water supply for emergency response or transporting water to remote locations, bladder tanks provide a quick and efficient solution that can be easily moved and set up as needed.

HDPE, a common choice for water storage, boasts impressive resistance to corrosion and UV radiation, making it well-suited for marine environments. Its innate durability ensures that the water bladder can withstand the rigours of boat use, remaining resilient against external elements that could compromise the integrity of the tank. XLPE, a variation of polyethylene, further enhances the performance of water bladder tanks on boats. Its cross-linked structure not only provides superior resistance to temperature extremes but also contributes to increased structural stability. This is particularly advantageous for boats where water tanks may be exposed to varying temperatures during journeys. The added resilience of XLPE ensures a prolonged lifespan for the water bladder, making it a reliable choice for boaters seeking a durable and robust water storage solution.

The lightweight nature of both HDPE and XLPE is a crucial factor for water bladder tanks on boats. Boats have specific weight limitations, and using lightweight materials helps maintain optimal weight distribution. The flexibility of these materials allows the water bladder to adapt to irregular spaces on the boat, optimising storage capacity without sacrificing structural integrity. Boaters can benefit from efficient space utilisation, ensuring they have an adequate and accessible water supply without compromising the vessel's performance.

A water butt, also known as a rain barrel, is a container used to collect and store rainwater that falls on rooftops. There are several benefits to having a water butt. Collecting rainwater in a water butt allows you to reuse it for various purposes, such as watering your plants, washing your car, or cleaning outdoor spaces. This reduces your reliance on tap water, which is often treated and requires energy for purification and distribution. Using rainwater from a water butt can help conserve water and reduce your overall water usage, leading to cost savings on your water bill.

Rainwater is naturally soft and free from the chemicals commonly found in tap water, such as chlorine and fluorine. Using rainwater collected in a water butt for watering your plants provides them with natural, untreated water, which can be healthier for their growth and development.

During periods of water scarcity or drought, having a water butt can provide you with a stored source of water for essential outdoor tasks, such as watering your garden or washing your car, even when water restrictions may be in place. This can help you maintain your outdoor spaces and reduce your impact on local water resources during times of water shortage.

A water butt is typically positioned under a downpipe or gutter on your roof. When it rains, water from the roof flows into the gutter and down the downpipe, and then into the water butt through a diverter or downpipe connector. Some water butts may also have a built-in filter to prevent debris, such as leaves and twigs, from entering the water butt and contaminating the stored water.

Once the rainwater enters the water butt, it is stored in the container until you are ready to use it. At Tanks Direct, we offer a range of water butts in various sizes, from 110 to 340 litres. Water butts are typically equipped with a tap or a hose attachment near the bottom of the container, allowing you to access the collected water easily. Some water butts may also have an overflow outlet near the top to prevent overflow during heavy rainfall.

You can use the stored rainwater in your water butt for various purposes, such as watering your plants, washing your car, or cleaning outdoor spaces. Depending on the design of your water butt, you can either use a tap to fill watering cans or connect a hose to the hose attachment to distribute the water directly to your garden or other areas.

The length of time you can keep water in a water butt depends on various factors, such as the size and material of the water butt and the quality of the collected rainwater. In general, rainwater stored in a properly maintained water butt can be kept for several weeks to several months. However, it's important to note that rainwater is not treated or purified, and over time, it may become stagnant or develop algae, which can affect its quality.

The quality of the rainwater collected in a water butt can vary depending on factors such as air pollution, debris, and contaminants from the roof or gutters. It's recommended to use a water butt with a built-in filter or add a filter attachment to the downpipe to help minimise debris and contaminants from entering the water butt. Regularly checking and cleaning the water butt, including the filter, can help maintain water quality.

If you use the stored rainwater in your water butt regularly for watering plants or other purposes, the water turnover will be higher, and the water is less likely to stagnate. Using the collected rainwater regularly can help ensure that the water remains fresh and reduces the risk of water quality issues.

Regular maintenance of the water butt is important to ensure the water remains clean and fresh. This includes checking the water butt for debris or sediment build-up, cleaning the container and filter as needed, and ensuring that the tap or hose attachment is in good working condition. Following the manufacturer's instructions for maintenance and cleaning is recommended.

It's generally recommended to use up the stored rainwater in a water butt within a few weeks to a few months to ensure optimal water quality. If you have concerns about water quality or if the water in your water butt appears discoloured, has an odour, or shows signs of contamination, it's best to discard the water and clean the water butt thoroughly before collecting new rainwater.

While rainwater is generally considered safe for many uses, including watering plants and cleaning outdoor spaces, it's not recommended to drink rainwater from a water butt without proper treatment. Rainwater collected in a water butt is not typically treated or purified and may contain various contaminants that can pose health risks if ingested.

Rainwater can pick up contaminants from the roof, gutters, and other surfaces as it flows into the water butt, including dust, pollen, bird droppings, leaves, and other debris. In addition, air pollution and environmental contaminants can also be present in rainwater, especially in urban areas. These contaminants can potentially affect the quality of the collected rainwater and make it unsafe for drinking without proper treatment.

Installing a water butt involves several steps to ensure proper setup and functionality.

1. Select a location for your water butt that is close to a downpipe or a rainwater source, such as a roof or gutter. The area should be level and stable to support the weight of the water butt when full. Consider accessibility for maintenance and ease of use, such as attaching a hose or filling watering cans.
2. Clear the area of any debris, vegetation, or obstacles that may interfere with the installation or use of the water butt. Ensure that the ground is level and stable.
3. Install a rainwater diverter to divert water from a downpipe into the water butt. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to install the diverter, which typically involves cutting a section of the downpipe and attaching the diverter using screws or clips. Make sure the diverter is securely fitted and positioned properly to direct water into the water butt.
4. Place the water butt in the chosen location and ensure that it is level and stable. If the water butt has a stand or pedestal, assemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions. Some water butts may also require additional brackets or supports for stability.
5. Connect the hose or pipe from the rainwater diverter to the inlet of the water butt. Make sure the connection is tight and secure to prevent leaks.
6. If the water butt has an overflow port, it's important to install an overflow pipe or hose to direct excess water away from the water butt and prevent overflow. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to attach the overflow pipe or hose securely and direct it to a suitable drainage area.
7. Install a tap or hose attachment at the base of the water butt to allow for easy access to the stored rainwater. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to install the tap or hose attachment securely and ensure that it is positioned properly for convenient use.
8. Once the water butt is installed, fill it with water to check for any leaks or drips. Fix any leaks or issues before using the water butt.

You will need to ensure your water butt is properly maintained by regularly checking for debris, cleaning filters or screens, and ensuring that the tap or hose attachment is in good working condition. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for maintenance and cleaning to ensure optimal performance.

Generally, rainwater harvesting tanks are considered "permitted development" and do not require formal planning permission, provided they meet specific criteria related to size, location, and impact on the property. For domestic properties, rainwater tanks are typically allowed without planning permission if they are located within the curtilage of your property, do not exceed certain height restrictions, and do not cover more than a specified percentage of the total land area. This means most homeowners can install rainwater tanks in their gardens or near their houses without seeking additional approvals.

However, there are important exceptions to this rule. If your property is located in a conservation area, is a listed building, or is in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, you may need to obtain planning permission. Additionally, if the rainwater tank would be visible from a public highway or would significantly alter the external appearance of your property, local planning authorities might require you to submit a planning application.

To ensure compliance, it's recommended to consult your local planning authority before installing a rainwater tank. They can provide specific guidance based on your property's unique characteristics and location. In most cases, homeowners can proceed with installing rainwater harvesting systems without formal planning permission, but it's always best to verify the specifics with local planning officials.

To keep water fresh in a rainwater tank, start with proper initial filtration. Install high-quality filters at the tank's entry point to remove debris, leaves, and contaminants before water enters the storage system. These filters prevent organic matter from decomposing inside the tank, which can lead to bacterial growth and water degradation.

Implement regular maintenance routines, including periodic tank cleaning and inspection. This involves draining the tank completely every one to two years, removing sediment buildup, and checking for any signs of algae or bacterial growth. Use food-grade tank cleaning solutions or chlorine treatments to sanitise the interior surfaces and prevent microbial contamination.

Protect your rainwater tank from direct sunlight, which can promote algae growth and water temperature fluctuations. Use opaque or dark-coloured tanks or install the tank in a shaded area. Additionally, ensure the tank has a tight-fitting, sealed lid to prevent external contaminants, insects, and small animals from entering the water supply.

Consider installing a first-flush diverter system, which redirects the initial rainfall away from the storage tank. This initial runoff typically contains the highest concentration of pollutants, dust, and debris from your roof. By separating this first batch of water, you significantly improve the overall water quality and freshness of the stored rainwater.

Rainwater harvesting is the collection and storage of rainwater, instead of letting it  be dispersed into the ground. There are various rainwater harvesting methods available but generally rainwater is collected from roof-like surfaces and redirected to a rainwater harvesting tank, either above the ground or below.

Rainwater harvesting has traditionally been used for watering the garden but, thanks to new technology, a rainwater harvesting system can be plumbed into your home’s existing pipework so that you can harvest rainwater to flush your toilets, wash your clothes and many other non-human consumption related applications. According to the Rainwater Harvesting Association, you could reduce your water consumption by as much as 40% which will lower your water bills if you’re on a water meter.

Typically, well-maintained cold water storage tanks crafted from durable materials like polyethylene or glass-reinforced plastic (GRP) can last anywhere from 20 to 30 years. The high-quality construction of the tanks sold at Tanks Direct contributes significantly to their longevity, with resistance to corrosion and wear-and-tear ensuring reliable performance over an extended period.

Your proactive involvement in regular maintenance plays a crucial role in determining the lifespan of the tank. Timely inspections for signs of damage, leaks, or structural issues can significantly prolong the tank's functionality. Regularly checking fittings, valves, and the integrity of the tank structure is essential to catch and address potential issues before they escalate.

Exposure to extreme temperatures, UV radiation, or harsh chemicals can accelerate wear. Proper installation and placement in a sheltered, well-ventilated area contribute to the tank's overall resilience.

Determining the appropriate size for your loft cold water storage tank is a critical step in ensuring an efficient and reliable water supply for your household. Start by assessing your daily water usage patterns. Consider the number of occupants in your home and their typical water-related activities, such as bathing, cooking, and laundry. This initial evaluation will provide a baseline for understanding your overall water demand.

Next, consider any specific requirements, such as the use of water for garden irrigation or other outdoor purposes. This comprehensive understanding of your water needs will guide you in selecting a tank size that accommodates both your current usage and potential future requirements.

Finally, it's crucial to be aware of the available loft space for tank installation. Measure the dimensions of your loft to ensure that the chosen tank fits comfortably within the designated area. Additionally, consider the tank's height, as it will affect the gravity-fed water pressure. Adequate water pressure ensures a consistent flow to your taps and appliances.

Insulating your cold-water storage tank is a wise decision with several benefits. The primary reason to insulate is to prevent heat loss from the water inside the tank. During colder seasons, uninsulated tanks can experience a drop in temperature, potentially leading to issues like freezing. Insulating your cold-water storage tank helps to maintain a more stable water temperature, reducing the risk of freezing and ensuring a reliable water supply.

By minimising heat loss, you can reduce the energy required to heat the water, which is particularly important if you have a water heating system connected to the tank. This energy-saving aspect not only promotes sustainability but also reflects positively on your utility bills, providing a cost-effective solution in the long run. Regulations often recommend or mandate specific insulation measures to enhance energy efficiency and prevent common issues associated with cold water storage. Ensuring your tank meets these regulations not only keeps you in compliance but also guarantees that your water system operates efficiently and safely.

If the position of the outlet is required in an alternative position to the standard one offered or extra to the one positioned, we can offer a plastic Fusion socket. This is a plastic outlet which can be welded anywhere on the tank using a drawing supplied by us, positions marked out by you, then fitted by the manufacturer.   

Plain tanks (with no outlets) can also be offered.

If you require a plastic fusion socket or a plain tank, then please contact our Customer Service Team, who will be happy to help with your requirements.

The job of your silt trap is to prevent any unwanted materials, like silt, soil and sediment, from entering your water storage system. Before entering the drainage system, water is directed into the silt trap — a basin-type container that is placed in the upstream of your soakaway crate. The water is temporarily contained in the trap where the silt and sediment settles to the bottom, leaving the filtered water at the top. The invert of the pipe sits just above where the sump settles below, allowing the filtered water to continue to the drainage system, leaving the silt behind.

Without a silt trap, silt and debris would enter your water storage system and cause costly damage. If water cannot drain away you risk causing flooding and your system’s ability to remove water could be affected, clogging pipes or filling soakaway systems, reducing their capacity for holding water.

All silt traps have the same purpose — to keep a soakaway system free from silt and sediment. But different types of silt traps are better for different types of systems. The primary difference between the different types of silt traps is the size of the area covered by your system. That’s why silt traps come in a range of sizes, so make sure you choose one that is suitable for your needs. Naturally, the larger the area your water storage system is serving, the larger your silt trap should be. You will also want to consider the type of environment. At Tanks Direct, we stock a wide of car wash silt traps that offer effective silt removal for car wash facilities or any areas with particularly high silt run-off.

Silt and debris will build up in your silt trap, so it’s important that it is regularly cleaned and maintained. Failure to do so can, at best, result in them becoming ineffective or, worse, eventually lead to an entirely blocked drainage system. The ‘basket’ of your silt trap can usually be easily removed to allow you to clean it and then put it back. The instructions will vary between each silt trap so it’s important to refer to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Ideally, you should try and avoid running a sewage pump continuously and only run it intermittently. This lowers the risk of overloading and damage to the pump in the long run.

It's important to consider the size of the pump and the amount of wastewater it will be moving. If the pump is too small, it won't be able to handle the amount of wastewater it needs to move and will eventually burn out. On the other hand, if the pump is too large, it will be wasting energy and money to run it continuously.  Most sewage pumps are also designed to run intermittently to conserve energy and reduce costs, so keeping it running all the time is not the most cost-effective use of this product.

Sump pumps are essential components of any home's plumbing system, as they are responsible for keeping the basement or crawlspace dry by removing excess water. However, like any other machine, sump pumps require regular maintenance to ensure that they are operating properly and efficiently. It is important to understand that sump pumps have a limited lifespan and, depending on the specific model, are typically expected to last up to ten years.

If you do not perform regular maintenance, the sump pump may fail prematurely, resulting in costly repairs or even a flooding incident. Regular maintenance should include checking the sump pump for any signs of corrosion or damage, such as rust or cracks, and checking electrical connections to make sure they are tight and secure. You may also want to insect your sump pump for any debris or blockages that may prevent it from working properly.

You can regularly test your sump pump to make sure it is working properly by filling up a bucket with water and placing it near the sump pump's inlet. If the pump does not turn on when the bucket is filled, you may have a problem.

Vortex impeller sewage pumps use centrifugal action. In this sewage pump. the impeller rotates and causes a tornado-like action that pulls the waste into the pump and then sends it into the discharge pipe with little or no contact with the impeller which helps the pump to withstand any stringy material it may encounter. This means there is a much lower chance of clogging the impeller. 

To see our range of sewage pumps click - https://www.tanks-direct.co.uk/waste-water-tanks/waste-water-pumps/sewage-pumps/c1039

Sewage pumps are available in a few different options including effluent pumps, grinder pumps or macerator pumps and submersible pumps. Effluent pumps remove the grey wastewater that stays in your septic tank after the solids have settled and are good for residential and small commercial applications.

Grinder pumps or macerator pumps collect wastewater from your household appliances and fixtures including toilets, washing machines, and bathtubs. Grinder or macerator pumps works by the pump grinding the waste into a fine slurry before pumping it to your septic tank when the water in the tank reaches a certain level from a holding tank to collect waste. Submersible pumps are used for residential, commercial, and agricultural applications.

If you are unsure of the type of sewage pump you need, we are more than willing to help. Please give us a call or send us an email.

Used to transfer waste liquids and solids from one place to another, a sewage pump is often referred to as a submersible sewage pump since the pump is submerged most of the time. Sewage pumps have a motor that rotates an impeller to create pressure that pushes the waste into a discharge pipe. In residential applications, the sewage is generally pumped from a sewage basin to a sewer system or a septic tank. Sewage pumps can be manual, automatic or dual mode, where the pump can be used as both manual and automatic. It is not recommended to use a manual sewage pump inside of a sewage basin due to the risk of sewage overflow.

Removing the pump

1. Begin by isolating the effected pump by switching to ‘Off’ on the control panel facia. Please note: if the pumping station will be remaining in service — with the other pump working on its own — it is essential that the effected pump controls are disabled by isolating or removing fuses.
2. Disconnect the effected pump motor cables at the control panel terminals, carefully noting the terminal positions for each wire. Plug off the cable entry hole at the panel.
3. Close the control panel door and return the main isolator to ‘On’.
4. Lift the effected pump clear of the chamber using the lifting chain provided. Please check the pump weight before attempting to manual lift. If specified on ordering, lifting equipment will have been supplied. The coupling fitted to the pump permits it to be removed and refitted simply by lifting it clear with the chain, the pump assembly sliding up and down the guide rail. No manual disconnection of pipework is required, and it is therefore not necessary for personnel to enter the chamber to remove a pump for servicing.
5. Hose the pump off thoroughly.

Pump refitting

1. Check the effected pump switch on the control panel facia is still in the ‘Off’ position and switch the main isolator to ‘Off’.
2. Lower the pump back down into the chamber on its guide rail, using the lifting chain provided. When in position on its pedestal, its own weight will lock the pump discharge connection into position.
3. Re-connect the pump cable at the panel terminals, taking care to ensure the gland entry is properly re-sealed.
4. Refit or re-connect fuses as required.
5. Close the panel door and switch the main isolator back to ‘On’. Reset the pump switch to ‘Auto’ mode and check for correct operation of both pumps through a complete set of cycles in accordance with the procedures in ‘Start up’.

With the right care and maintenance, your sewage pump should last for many years. There are, however, several factors that will affect the lifespan of your sewage pump. If your sewage pump is not correctly installed to begin with, its lifespan will decrease. That is why we recommend your sewage pump is installed by a fully qualified engineer. We’d also advise that your sewage pump is regularly serviced to identify any potential issues and prevent it getting blocked. With the correct installation and ongoing maintenance, sewage pumps have the potential to last for over 30 years.

Effluent pumps are generally more efficient than other sewage pumps as they are only pumping grey water. However, the effluent pumps may not be suitable for your use. The most efficient sewage would be the one that is most suited to your application and system size. If you are unsure of the type of sewage pump you need, we are more than willing to help. Please give us a call or send us an email.

Sewage pumping stations are needed when gravity cannot be relied upon to move wastewater and sewage towards the main sewer line. Perhaps there is a lack of gravitational flow if, for example, the sewage is situated below the main sewer level and would need to be pumped upwards. Maybe the sewer is obstructed by a ridge or there is no gravity system in place. In these circumstances, installing a sewage pump station could be much cheaper and just as effective as installing a sewage system with gravitational flow.

You’ll find many advantages to having a sewage pump station installed at your property. They can be fitted with alarms so that you will be notified if there are any problems with the system. Sewage pump stations also work automatically so there is minimal human contact. This reduces the risk of health issues.

Your sewage pump should not run constantly. Usually it should run from 10 to 15 seconds until the float switch detects the water level has dropped adequately. It will then cut off. If your sewage pump is running constantly it may need to be serviced, repaired or replaced. The average life expectancy of a sewage pump is about 10 years.

To see our full range of sewage pumps click - https://www.tanks-direct.co.uk/water-tanks/pumps/sewage-and-waste-water-pumps/c1049

You may need to service or replace your sewage pump is you find the following: -

• If the water at the discharge point is dirty or brown
• The pump is not working at all or sounds like it’s struggling to pump
• Your pump is constantly running and doesn’t switch off even though no one is using the facilities in the building
• Sewage is backed up into the building
• There is a smell of sewage
• There is no fluid emptying from the holding tank
• There is no power to the pump

If you do require a Service, please give a ring to arrange.

Yes, it is cost effective to get your sewage pump regularly maintained to lengthen the life of the pump. Typically pump servicing will include: -

• Cleaning out the sump chamber
• Cleaning of pumps and float switch
• Electrical test of pumps and all floats
• Checking all cables for damages and general wear

SuDs stands for Sustainable Drainage Systems. They are systems designed to be environmentally beneficial, to ensure minimal or no long-term detrimental damage to the surrounding environment. It is a term used to describe control strategies or products that allow the efficient and sustainable drainage of surface water, to help minimise pollution and manage the impact on water quality in local water bodies.

SuDs help to manage surface rainfall run-off by controlling the rate and volume of the runoff. This helps to relieve pressure on sewerage systems, imitating natural drainage as closely as possible. SuDs can help local authorities, planners, architects, and developers deliver greener infrastructure.

Sustainable drainage systems (SuDS) present an opportunity to add value to a project, while meeting local planning requirements around increasing sustainability and managing flood risk. They can help save you time and money but that’s not all.

SuDS reduce the impact of urbanisation on flooding, by managing runoff and flow rates from hard surfaces. They provide opportunities for using runoff where it falls, such as rainwater harvesting, that in turn helps to reduce both the flow into sewers and our dependency on mains water. Some SUDs can help to reduce pollution, protecting the quality of downstream water bodies such as streams, rivers, lakes, bathing, or shellfish waters. They preserve the natural flow regimes in watercourses and, by being sympathetic to the environment and the needs of the local community, create better places to live, work and visit. Urban watercourses can provide an attractive habitat for wildlife, as well as providing opportunities for evapotranspiration from vegetation and surface water.

Bypass and full retention separators

Sometimes known as petrol interceptors, bypass and full retention separators are designed to manage runoffs and spills, whether that’s from large amounts of rainfall or the accidental spillage of oil or fuel. These separators will protect your local environment from pollutants and help reduce the risk of large fines from the Environment Agency. Full retention separators are used when there’s a medium to high risk of contamination caused by spillage or flooding, for example in large car parks, industrial workshops, and recycling centres. Bypass separators are used when the area has a low risk of contamination, such as roadways or commercial areas that would only get light contamination. It can cope with water flow generated by rainfall up to 6.5mm per hour.

Domestic rainwater harvesting

Rainwater harvesting is an eco-friendly way of reducing water usage in your home. There are two types of systems available – direct and in-direct. In a direct system, harvested water is pumped directly to the appliances, whereas in an in-direct system, the harvested rainwater gets stored in a holding tank and gravity feeds the appliances. The harvested water can be used for a variety of appliances, including toilets, showers, baths, sinks and washing machines.

Surface water treatment separators

 Surface water treatment separators (SWT) reduce pollution in line with SuDs Mitigation Indices by removing metals, hydrocarbons, and suspended solids from surface water. Our SWTs are lightweight and easy to install and can be maintained and serviced from ground level.

Vertical and horizontal flow control solutions

 Designed to control the flow of water into local watercourses, flow control solutions reduce the risk of flooding on natural habitats and prevent bank erosion.

Vertical and horizontal pump stations

Used in housing estates, hospitals, and commercial sites, sewage pumping stations transport sewage or wastewater when gravity cannot naturally carry it, such as where a sewer line may travel up an incline or over a ridge. They work by collecting wastewater and storing it in a chamber. When the chamber is full, a high-pressure integral pump lifts the sewage through a discharge system before pumping it into a sewage treatment works.

SuDS stands for Sustainable Drainage Systems, which are designed to manage surface water runoff in a more sustainable and environmentally friendly manner. There are three main types of SuDS:

Source control SuDS focus on managing surface water as close to its origin as possible. It involves techniques such as green roofs, permeable paving, rainwater harvesting, and infiltration trenches. The aim is to prevent water from entering the drainage system in the first place, reducing the risk of flooding and pollution.

Site control SuDS manage surface water at or near the development site. Techniques include swales, detention basins, ponds, and wetlands. These features capture and slow down the flow of water, allowing pollutants to settle out and providing habitat for wildlife.

Regional control SuDS manage surface water at a broader scale, typically at the catchment or watershed level. These systems include sustainable urban drainage networks (SUDS), which connect multiple sites and utilise natural features such as rivers, streams, and floodplains to attenuate and manage runoff. Regional control SuDS aim to reduce flood risk and protect water quality across entire landscapes.

Embracing SuDS not only mitigates flood risk and safeguards water quality but also fosters more resilient and liveable communities amidst the challenges posed by escalating urbanisation and the impacts of climate change.

SuDS function by intercepting rainwater at the source, using techniques such as green roofs, permeable pavements, and rain gardens right where the rain falls. By doing so, SuDS reduce the amount of water entering traditional drainage systems, thus alleviating the risk of flooding in your area. Essentially, SuDS work by capturing rainwater before it has a chance to become run-off. SuDS then employ a variety of site-based measures to manage rainwater effectively. For instance, features like swales, detention basins, and ponds are strategically placed across landscapes to slow down the flow of water and allow for natural infiltration. These help to prevent the overwhelming of drainage systems, minimising the risk of flooding. SuDS incorporate regional-scale solutions to address broader drainage challenges within entire catchment areas. This involves the creation of sustainable urban drainage networks (SUDS) that connect various sites and utilise natural features like rivers, streams, and wetlands to manage stormwater. By taking a holistic approach, SuDS mitigate flood risk not just at a local level but across entire landscapes, providing comprehensive protection for communities like yours.

SuDS promote the infiltration and storage of rainwater within the landscape, rather than allowing it to rapidly run-off into drainage systems. This helps to replenish groundwater resources and sustain base flow in rivers and streams, contributing to overall water resource management. By allowing rainwater to filter through soil and vegetation, SuDS remove pollutants and improve water quality, benefiting not only the environment but also your health and wellbeing.

SuDS offer effective flood risk management in your community. By intercepting and managing rainwater close to its source, SuDS reduce the volume and speed of run-off entering traditional drainage systems during heavy rainfall. This proactive approach helps to alleviate the pressure on infrastructure, minimising the risk of flooding and safeguarding your property from water damage. And, by promoting natural infiltration and filtration processes, SuDS remove pollutants, sediments, and debris from stormwater run-off before it reaches water bodies such as rivers, lakes, and streams. Cleaner water not only benefits aquatic ecosystems and wildlife but also enhances recreational opportunities and the overall aesthetic appeal of your surroundings. SuDS also provide a sustainable solution to manage stormwater in a changing climate. By incorporating green infrastructure elements such as green roofs, permeable pavements, and vegetated swales, SuDS help to mitigate the effects of urban heat islands, reduce surface run-off, and adapt to shifting weather patterns.

SuDS offer multiple benefits beyond flood risk management and water quality improvement. For instance, green spaces and vegetated features incorporated into SuDS provide habitat for wildlife, support biodiversity, and enhance the overall ecological health of your environment. They contribute to the creation of more attractive and liveable communities, with green spaces, parks, and recreational areas that enhance your quality of life and well-being.

Under Environment Agency Septic Tank General Binding Rules, if your septic tank discharges into surface water, like a stream, river, ditch, surface water drain etc., it should have been replaced with a full sewage treatment plant by the 1st January 2020. By not carrying out the replacement, you could be liable to a hefty fine.

At Tanks Direct we stock a wide range of sewage treatment plants from leading manufacturers including Klargester Biodisc, Klargester Biotec and Harlequin Hydroclear. A sewage treatment plant removes contaminants from wastewater using the growth of bacteria to break down the sewage. They produce cleaner and more environmentally friendlier effluent. Domestic sewage treatment plants are the perfect alternative when it isn’t legal to have a septic tank.

Recognising signs early that your septic tank is full and in need of emptying is essential to maintaining the health of your septic tank system. One noticeable sign that your septic tank may be getting full is slow drainage throughout your plumbing fixtures. You might notice that sinks, showers, and toilets are slower to drain than usual. Water may back up or gurgle in drains, indicating that your septic system is struggling to handle the volume. As the tank fills, it has less capacity to contain and treat the waste properly, so you may notice foul odours in and around your property. The most inconvenient and obvious sign of a full septic tank is sewage backups inside your home. If toilets or drains are consistently backing up or becoming clogged, it's a clear indication that your septic tank is overloaded and needs immediate attention.

Another indicator is a vibrant, lush patch of grass or vegetation over your drain field. When the tank reaches its capacity and cannot properly process wastewater, the excess effluent may fertilise the surrounding soil, causing grass and plants to thrive more than usual. Standing water or soggy areas in your garden, especially around the septic tank or drain field, can also signal that your septic tank is full or experiencing issues. This pooling occurs when the tank is unable to absorb and distribute wastewater efficiently. If you notice these wet areas persisting, it's essential to address the situation promptly to prevent further damage to your septic system.

Rainwater must not enter your septic tank. Make sure that the downpipes and drains that carry rainwater are not connected to your septic tank. Your tank is sized to deal with a specific volume of wastewater – ensuring the sewage remains in the septic tank long enough for all the solid waste to settle at the bottom. If rainwater enters the tank, the flow rate increases, and adequate settlement does not occur. As a result, the effluent would contain so many suspended solids that it would very quickly compromise the soakaway, and the contents of the tank will be washed out before they’ve been broken down, causing pollution and health hazards. Septic tanks and sewage treatment systems must only be connected to grey and black water drains, such as toilets, sinks, showers, baths, washing machines, and dishwashers. If you’re looking to manage rainfall and surface water, consider installing a rainwater harvesting system. 

A cesspool (sometimes called a cesspit) is just a holding tank for wastewater. It only has one pipe connection fitted, that lets the waste into the tank. There is no treatment of the waste, so the sewage just builds up in the tank and needs to be emptied by a sewage disposal tanker every month or so (depending on how big the cesspool is and how many people are using it).

 A septic tank is a step up from a cesspool. A septic tank has two pipe connections - one for the inlet, that lets wastewater in, and an outlet, that discharges treated wastewater into a soak away. Like a cesspool, a septic tank will need to have sludge emptied by a disposal tanker, but not at the rate of a cesspool. Septic tanks are a much better and cleaner sewage system. They treat the waste, so it can safely interact with our environment and require emptying less often, saving you money.

Septic tanks, when properly maintained, can serve you well for several decades. A well-constructed septic tank can last anywhere from twenty to forty years or even longer, making it a worthwhile investment for your property. But to maximise the lifespan of your septic tank, you should schedule routine inspections and emptying. This preventative maintenance helps remove accumulated sludge and scum, preventing them from clogging the system and causing damage. Neglecting these maintenance tasks can drastically reduce your septic tank's lifespan, leading to costly repairs or replacements sooner than expected. You should avoid flushing non-biodegradable items, excessive grease, or chemicals down the drain, as these can harm the system and lead to premature deterioration. Educate yourself and your household on septic-friendly practices to ensure your system remains in good working condition for many years to come.

The type of soil and climate in your area may also impact the lifespan of your septic tank. In areas with dense clay soils, for instance, the tank may fill up faster. Harsh weather conditions can also affect the tank's structural integrity, so it's essential to take these factors into account and adapt your maintenance schedule accordingly.

A septic tank is the first stop for the wastewater that leaves your home. The waste is held in the tank, where it goes through the process of separating the solids from the liquids before filtering water into your drainage field. The best type of septic tank for your house will depend on several variables – from your property’s square footage to the number of bedrooms and number of people using the system.

The larger your house, the larger septic tank you’ll probably need. And the more occupants in your home, the bigger the tank you’ll need. A small septic tank will probably suffice if you only have two people living in your property – but if you have a large family, of five or more people living in your home, you’ll need a larger septic tank to manage all the household waste hygienically and effectively.

It's also important to consider the following: Do you have two kitchens? Or multiple bathrooms and ensuites? Do you have, or plan to have, a hot tub or a swimming pool? All of these will increase the demand on your septic tank.

There are three types of septic tanks: the more traditional masonry-built pits, Low profile units or modern fibre glass units, often referred to as “onions”. Regardless of their type, septic tanks all function the same way. There is a settlement tank where the sewage and waste is held for a length of time, while naturally-occurring, waste-degrading bacteria breaks down the organic matter in a process called anaerobic decomposition. The final effluent from the septic tank is then drained into an underground soak away system.

In an onion shaped septic tank, the tank is split into three vertical segments. Wastewater enters the septic tank’s first chamber and is held there. This gives the waste material time to separate, with solids and sludge settling at the bottom of the tank and other lighter waste floats to the top. The naturally occurring aerobic (waste-degrading) bacteria breaks down the waste in the tank, reducing the volume of solid waste. The liquid in-between flows through into a second and third chamber, where further settlement occurs. Finally, the effluent exits to the soak away on the other side of the tank.

It is important to ensure your soak away is an adequate size to efficiently handle the volume of effluent from your septic tank.

There are 3 options available:

(1) Connect to a main sewer if possible
(2) install a drainage field or
(3) install a sewage treatment plant which treats the wastewater, producing a clear overflow that is environmentally friendly and suitable for discharging.

To see our full range of sewage treatment plants, visit our dedicated sewage treatment plant page.

If you’re thinking about installing your septic tank yourself, think carefully. Although hiring a specialist contractor may seem pricey, an incorrectly installed septic tank can leave you in a nasty mess; both physically and legally. Incorrectly installed septic tanks can cause serious drainage issues, that can be extremely costly to fix. An installation by a professional contractor is highly recommended and will give you complete peace of mind, knowing your septic tank is suitable for your needs, in good working order and legally compliant.

If you have the skills and experience to install a septic tank yourself, the following offers a very basic guide to installing a septic tank system. However, professional advice should always be sought to fully understand the legalities of installing your system, and the manufacturer’s guidance and instructions should always be followed carefully.

Prepare

Ensure you have the correct Building Regulations approval, and you have your consent of discharge from the Environment Agency. Read the full installation guide provided by your tank’s manufacturer. Check your tank on delivery and ensure the depth of your incoming pipework is suitable for the tank. Have a pump available to keep excavation free from rising groundwater during installation.

Install the tank

Dig a hole that is big enough for the tank and any recommended backfill. Please refer to the manufacturer’s installation guide, considering the drainage falls required. Ensure the tank is level and has a solid base to sit on. Check that the inlet and outlet orientation is correct, before backfilling with whatever material the manufacturer advises, and lay the pipes for your drainage field.

Connect the pipes

Once everything is in place, connect the tank inlet to the drainage pipe from your house and the outlet to your drainage field. Consult a qualified plumber if you are unsure.

Within the tank, there should be lots of bacterial activity, digesting the organic waste in the effluent layer and sludge layer. The rate of digestion is dependent on the bacteria present, the amount of oxygen and the amount of inbound wastewater. If the bacteria can’t keep up digesting the organic material in the wastewater, two things happen. Firstly, there will be a build-up of sludge that will require pumping out. Secondly, undigested effluent waste in the middle liquid layer will flow straight into the soak away, increasing the chances of soak away drainage and blockages.

If your septic tank system is not in good working order, it can be a serious risk to both health and the environment. You also have a legal responsibility to maintain your septic tank system. In looking after your septic tank, it will have to be emptied less frequently, and this will save you money. A septic tank system can also be costly to replace if it fails.

Follow these key steps to keep your septic tank system healthy:

1. Don’t overload the tank
   Consider how much waste might be running into the tank in one go. If you have multiple showers running at the same time, as well as the washing machine and the dishwasher, the tank will be receiving a significant amount of liquid in one go. While that liquid may not hold excessive amounts of organic waste, it could stir up the waste in the tank, mixing sludge and scum into the clear water middle layer, which will then overflow into the drain field and soak away. Be mindful and try to balance what flows out into the tank, as much as possible, throughout the day.
    
2. Reduce the amount of water you’re using
   Not only will this lower your water bills, reducing the volume of water you use will improve the performance of your septic tank system. There are several ways to do this:

• Consider more efficient toilet cisterns
• Use plugs in sinks and basins
• Take shorter showers/use less bathwater
• Use eco settings on washing machines and dishwashers

Think about what you’re flushing

Sanitary products, wipes and cotton buds contain plastics in some shape or form, and the good bacteria in your tank can only digest organic waste. Therefore, you must never flush these types of products. Harsh chemical products, like bleaches and paint strippers, are going to kill the bacterial population in your tank, resulting in poor waste digestion and will negatively affect your septic tank performance. Fats, oils and grease may create blockages and are a major component of scum layers on the surface of the tank.

• Don’t flush anything other than bodily waste and toilet paper down the toilet
• Don’t dispose of grease or oil down any drain – wipe out pans and pour fat into a container to be disposed of in the bin
• Don’t put paints, solvents or chemicals down the drain
• Don’t try to unblock pipes with caustic soda or drain cleaners. Try boiling water instead
• Don’t connect rainwater pipes to your septic tank

To keep your septic tank performing as well as possible, we recommend you have it emptied regularly. This will reduce the risk of a build-up of sludge, which can lead to problems with your system. This could be anything from an unpleasant smell to a complete system failure. It can be tricky and expensive to fix issues with your septic tank, so make sure you get the tank emptied regularly and before these issues occur, and make sure the company you use to empty your septic tank is registered to do so.

Of course, how often it should be emptied will depend on several factors including the size of your septic tank (a small one will need emptying more often than a larger one), the number of people using the system and what you are flushing into the septic tank.

It is important that you recognise the signs that your septic tank is full – to save you money, stress, and ensure that your environment is kept safe. Here are some signs that may indicate your tank is full:

• Wastewater overflows into the drainage area, and you see pools of water appearing near your septic tank.
• Water starts to drain away slowly from sinks, drains and toilets.
• You notice nasty odours.
• Grass above the septic tank or drainage area is especially green as there is a lot of water around.
• Sewage begins to back up as the wastewater has nowhere to go. This is the worst, and most expensive way, to find out your tank is full!

If your septic tank system is in good working order you should have the following:

• Your household drainage should be quick to clear, and toilets should not be backing up
• There should be no smell from your tank and the cover should be accessible and well fitting
• The soak away should be dry not swampy, smelly or have prolific grass growth
• A pale liquid with little or no smell should come from the discharge pipe. It should not be dark, smelly or contain solids
• Makes sure to keep deep-rooted trees and plants at least 30 m away from your system. Keep the grass nearby short.

If any of the above is showing signs that your septic tank system is not in proper working order, you must get it repaired or replaced by a credited installer.

You should have your septic tank system regularly maintained in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. If these are not available, ask your local maintenance company for advice. This will save costly repairs or replacement of the sewage system in the long term.

If your tank does not comply with the “General Binding Rules” you must apply for a permit. To see the General Binding Rules go to https://www.gov.uk/guidance/general-binding-rules-small-sewage-discharge-to-a-surface-water

Different areas of Great Britain have different requirements: -

• England – No charge
• Northern Ireland – Yes, a charge applies
• Scotland – Yes, a charge applies
• Wales – Yes, no charge applies in most cases

If you own a property which you rent, or you are a tenant yourself, it can become a little less clear who has the responsibility to empty the septic tank. Maintenance and responsibility can be written into the tenancy agreement. If you are a landlord renting out a property with a septic tank you may need to put measures in place if you want the tenant to take responsibility for the septic tank. You may need an inspection or service after the end of any tenancy period. As a tenant, if it is written into the tenancy agreement that you have responsibility for the septic tank, you might also want to insist upon an inspection to ensure you aren’t inheriting any issues you would then be liable to pay for is one way to do this. Checking the schedule of maintenance and the obligations is another before any serious issues can occur. Following the guidelines of the septic tank is important too.

Yes we offer the full range of Klargester replacement parts, please see our waste water parts section for more: /parts-accessories/waste-water-accessories/c946

Septic tanks should be at least 7 metres away from any dwelling. They should also be located within 30 metres of an access point so that the tank can be emptied.

If you sell a property with a septic tank that discharges directly into a watercourse, you should agree with the buyer who will be responsible for replacing or upgrading the treatment system. You should agree this as a condition of sale. You must also provide the buyer with a description of the treatment plant and drainage system, the location of the main parts of the treatment plant, the drainage system and discharge point, how the treatment plant should be maintained, and any details of any changes made to the treatment plant and drainage system while you were the owner of the property. You’ll also want to give the new owners the maintenance manual and maintenance records if you have them.

Selling a property without a septic tank installed or with a septic tank that is non-compliant with the government’s general binding rules will not only detract potential buyers but may also be subject to enforcement action by the Environment Agency. You can find details of the latest regulations surrounding septic tanks on the government’s website.

If your current system discharges directly into a water course, you will need to upgrade your system. To go through your options give us a call, and we can talk you through the various options.

Find out more about our sewage treatment systems now.

Making up between 50 to 80% of a household’s wastewater, greywater is a term given to the relatively clean wastewater from baths, sinks, washing machines and other kitchen appliances. It is generally any water that is drained from the house except toilet water. It may contain traces of food, grease, hair, dirt and household cleaning products, but it does not contain urine or faecal matter, which would be classified as blackwater as it contains harmful bacteria and disease-causing pathogens. There are ways to capture and reuse greywater, for activities like watering the garden and flushing toilets. There are simple kits that can divert greywater from your down-pipe if it is easily accessible.

A sump pump is primarily designed to remove excess water from basements, crawl spaces, or other areas prone to flooding or water accumulation. It is typically installed in a sump pit or basin where water collects, and its primary function is to pump this water away from the building to prevent flooding and water damage. Sump pumps are activated by float switches or sensors and are often powered by electricity. They are crucial for managing groundwater infiltration during heavy rains or preventing water damage in areas with poor drainage.

Grey water pumps are specifically designed to transfer wastewater generated from household activities such as baths, washing machines, and dishwashers for reuse purposes. They pump the wastewater into a separate storage tank or distribution system for reuse in applications such as landscape irrigation or toilet flushing. Grey water pumps are typically installed within the plumbing system of a building and may incorporate filtration or treatment mechanisms to ensure the quality of the reused water. In summary, while both sump pumps and grey water pumps involve pumping water, they serve different purposes and operate in different environments. Sump pumps are used to prevent flooding and manage excess groundwater, typically in basements or low-lying areas, while grey water pumps are used to recycle wastewater for non-potable purposes, such as irrigation or toilet flushing, within residential or commercial buildings.

Greywater and rainwater are not the same. Rainwater is fresh precipitation straight from the sky. It is naturally pure and free from salts, chemicals, detergents and minerals. Greywater is once-used household water that comes from washing machines, baths, showers and sinks. It may contain traces of food, dirt, grease and household cleaning products, so is less ‘clean’ than rainwater. It contains bacteria and a nutrient source and, as it is often discharged warm, is an ideal environment for pathogens to multiply.

Because of this, it is not recommended that greywater is stored. It is best directed to a soakaway and released a couple of inches below surface level. Rainwater, however, is relatively clean and can therefore be safely stored for long periods of time.

A greywater pump pushes wastewater from baths, showers, washing machines, and dishwasher into your property’s wastewater system. Greywater pumps are designed to eliminate grey wastewater safely and effectively, pumping greywater away from your home.

One commonly used type of grey water pump is the submersible grey water pump, which is installed directly inside the grey water storage tank. These pumps are compact and efficient, requiring minimal space and offering ease of installation. They work well for small to medium-sized households where space might be limited, and they are relatively low maintenance. However, submersible pumps may struggle with larger volumes of grey water or heavy solids and may require periodic cleaning to prevent clogging.

Choose from single or twin grey water pumps that differ primarily in their configuration and capacity. Single grey water pumps consist of a single pump unit that handles the transfer of grey water from the storage tank to its intended reuse destination, such as irrigation systems or toilets. This type of pump is suitable for smaller-scale applications or situations where the volume of grey water generated is relatively low. It operates with a single motor and pump mechanism, simplifying installation and maintenance. Twin grey water pump systems include two pump units working in tandem to transfer grey water. These pumps can handle higher volumes of grey water and are often used in larger households or commercial applications where greater water flow is required. Twin pumps offer redundancy and reliability, as one pump can continue functioning if the other requires maintenance or encounters issues. They are typically more powerful and can accommodate fluctuations in grey water flow more effectively than single pumps.

Greywater is household wastewater that comes from showers, washing machines, baths and bathroom sinks. It is once-used water that has been in contact with humans and their germs. Even if it is treated, greywater has the potential to carry bacteria and viruses and is never going to be safe to drink. There are some ways to reuse your greywater, however — for flushing toilets, laundry and watering your garden, for example. The plumbing from most buildings directs all wastewater (greywater and blackwater) to the sewer. But if greywater is separated out from the more polluted blackwater that comes from toilets, it can be treated and used as an alternative source of water for non-potable purposes.

If you are unable to connect to a public sewer, building regulations state you’ll need a sewage treatment plant, septic tank or cesspool to manage wastewater.

Cesspools hold sewage in a tank with no outlet or facilities to treat the waste. When the tank is full, the waste needs to be collected by a lorry tanker and taken away for disposal. A cesspool may suit you if the ground is unsuitable for wastewater to soak away or if the site is close to a drinking water supply. They are generally a cheaper option to get installed. Be warned though, the wastewater inside your tank is not treated and having the waste collected regularly can get pricey. You should also note that cesspools are banned in Scotland and used usually only as a last resort in the rest of the UK.

Sewage treatment plants, on the other hand, treat your wastewater by creating an environment that allows waste-degrading bacteria to flourish so that you can discharge your treated waste into a ditch or stream. They are affordable, clean and treat sewage so that it has minimal impact on the environment. They do, however, require regular maintenance and an electricity supply.

Septic tanks use a multiple tank system that separates the wastewater into solids and liquids. They can treat and discharge the liquid part of the sewage, leaving the solid waste requiring collection and disposal by a tanker. These are ideal for small developments or single dwellings. You’ll need to ensure you have a drainage field or mound that is porous enough for the liquid effluent to percolate as septic tanks can no longer be discharged into a watercourse under new UK laws. They are cheap to install and only require desludging once or twice a year.

You will need a wastewater tank on your property if you are unable to connect to a public sewer. If you're thinking of installing a wastewater tank on your property, we'd advise you to start by researching the suitability of sewage treatment plants, septic tanks and cesspools to get an understanding of how they work and their individual benefits and limitations. If you need any help or advice, please feel free to call our friendly team. We can help with advice on which treatment plants will be suitable for your situation and advise you on whether they require any planning permissions or permits to install.

When determining the type of wastewater tank you need as a homeowner, several factors should be considered. For more information on which tank is right for you, please click the following link to see our homeowners guide, on what type of wastewater tank you might need.

 A cesspool, also known as a cesspit, is an underground tank that collects wastewater and sewage. There is no outlet to disperse the waste or facility to treat it — it simply stores wastewater and sewage until it is collected by a tanker and taken away for disposal. They typically have a manhole for access and the only piping is to release gasses which accumulate in the tank. The contents of your cesspool must be removed regularly. How often will depend on the size of your tank and how much wastewater you are producing, but typically you will want your cesspool emptied by a licensed waste handler every month.

You may need a cesspool if your property is not connected to a public sewer network or for holiday homes, camp sites and places where the discharge of effluent into the ground is not possible due to unsuitable soil conditions. You do not need a permit to install a cesspool unless the Environment Agency tells you that you do and they do not have to comply with the general binding rules that apply to septic tanks. However, you will need planning permission and building regulations approval to install your cesspool.

 A septic tank is buried underground, just like a cesspool. Unlike a septic tank however, a cesspool does not process or treat wastewater and sewage — it simply stores it. Septic tank systems treat the wastewater, treating the liquid wastewater so that it can drain away into a stream or soakaway. The system is simple but effective — wastewater enters a chamber where solids can settle and decompose at the bottom. The liquid at the top flows into a second chamber where any finer remaining solids are removed from the liquid and through to the soakaway. Solid waste from septic tanks will occasionally need collecting by a licensed disposal specialist, in much the same way as a cesspool, but much less often. That’s why having a cesspool can become quite costly long-term as waste disposal services don’t come cheap. Cesspools are also a less eco-friendly choice as untreated effluent could overflow into the surrounding environment. Septic tanks are safer as the wastewater is treated. 

Cesspools are usually used as a last resort or for temporary drainage situations. You may need a cesspool if your property isn’t connected to the public sewer network and where discharging effluent into the ground is not possible, such as holiday homes and camp sites. Cesspools do not have to comply with general binding rules that apply to septic tanks and you won’t need a permit to install one unless the Environment Agency tells you otherwise. It is important, however, to obtain planning permission and building regulations approval to install your cesspool.

For septic tanks, the recent changes in regulations state that they can no longer discharge into surface water, for example streams, rivers, ditches, drains etc. and if yours does you should replace it immediately with a full sewage treatment plant under Environment Agency Septic Tank General Binding Rules. As of 1st January 2020, all septic tanks that discharge into waterways must be either replaced, using sewage treatment plants with full BS EN 12566-3 documentation, the discharge to the waterway impeded and redirected to a drain field, designed and made according to the up-to-date British Standard BS6297 2007.

With good and regular maintenance, your basement pump should last for many years. There are several factors that will affect the longevity of your basement drainage pump. Regular and intense use will affect the lifespan of your basement pump, so if you have a below ground property with a high level of water ingress, your basement drainage pump is likely to be in a state of constant use. Like any machinery, the more it is in use the quicker its lifespan will decline. Equally, if your basement has been fitted with a pump that is too small, the pump will have to work much harder, shortening its lifespan. It’s also important that your basement drainage pump is installed correctly — if the motor doesn’t engage properly or the connection to the piping isn’t quite right, you could find that your pump works itself to an early grave. A lack of maintenance can also negatively affect the lifespan of your basement pump so keep a regular maintenance schedule to ensure your pump stays healthy.

Sump pumps are the same as basement drainage pumps. They are used to remove water that has accumulated in a water-collecting basin and then pumped to the nearest drainage point. Sump pumps are commonly found in basements that are below ground level.

A basement sewer pump usually needs to be installed then your sewer line level is below the main sewer system. The pump collects the wastewater from your basement bathroom or toilet into a tank and, when the sewer pump is turned on, the motor rotates creating a centrifugal force that pushes the wastewater into the impeller. It is then discharged into the main sewage network or a septic tank.

A sump pump serves as a crucial guardian for your home, especially in areas prone to flooding or excessive moisture. Nestled in the lowest part of your basement or crawlspace, the primary function of a sump pump is to prevent water accumulation and potential flooding. It achieves this by actively collecting excess water that could seep into your home's foundation and directs it away from the property.

The heart of the sump pump system is the sump pit, a specially constructed basin that collects water. When the water level in the pit reaches a certain height, a float or pressure sensor triggers the pump into action. The pump then swiftly removes the water from the pit and directs it away from your home through a discharge pipe, usually leading to a storm drain or a designated area that prevents water from re-entering your property.

Beyond preventing flooding, a sump pump is a valuable defence against mould and mildew. By swiftly removing excess water, it reduces the risk of moisture seeping into your home's foundation and creating a breeding ground for these harmful substances. This not only protects your property but also promotes a healthier indoor environment for you and your family.

The electricity consumption of a sump pump is a common concern for homeowners, but the actual usage can vary based on factors such as pump type, capacity, and frequency of operation. Generally, sump pumps are not known for consuming a significant amount of electricity. Submersible pumps, which are more commonly used in residential applications, are typically energy efficient. The power consumption of a sump pump is measured in watts. A typical submersible sump pump might use around 500 to 750 watts. However, it's crucial to note that sump pumps are designed to operate intermittently. They kick into action when the water level in the sump pit rises to a certain point, usually triggered by heavy rainfall or melting snow. Once the water is pumped out and the pit is clear, the pump shuts off. This on-and-off cycle helps minimise continuous electricity consumption. If you live in an area prone to heavy rainfall or have a high-water table, your sump pump may operate more frequently. However, for many homeowners, the pump might only run a few times a month or even less, resulting in modest electricity usage. Regular maintenance, including cleaning the pump and ensuring proper functioning of the float switch, also contributes to energy efficiency by allowing the pump to operate optimally.

No, a sump pump should not run continuously throughout the day. Sump pumps are designed to operate intermittently, turning on only when the water level in the sump pit rises to a certain point. Continuous operation may indicate a problem with the pump, the float switch, or an unusually high water inflow that requires investigation.

A constantly running sump pump can be a sign of an overwhelmed drainage system, a malfunctioning float switch, or a pump that is too large for the intended application. If your sump pump runs continuously, it's crucial to assess the situation promptly to prevent potential issues such as motor burnout, increased electricity consumption, and unnecessary wear and tear on the pump components.

If you notice that the pump is running more frequently than usual or appears to be struggling to keep up with water inflow, it's time to investigate. Check for any visible leaks, assess the condition of the pump, and ensure that the float switch is functioning correctly. Additionally, examine the drainage system and discharge pipe to confirm that water is being directed away from your home effectively. Remember, a well-maintained and properly functioning sump pump is crucial in safeguarding your home from potential flooding and water damage.

A domestic sewage treatment plant works by breaking down solid waste to produce a cleaner, more environmentally friendly effluent. Wastewater and sewage are supplied to the primary tank, where the solids separate and from the liquid and then flows into the biozone chamber. Here, a pump airs the waste and friendly bacteria is used to condense the organic matter, breaking it down. When the waste leaves the final waste chamber, it is 95% clean and ready for dispersal into soak away systems, subject to consent from the relevant environmental agency.

A well-designed and properly maintained sewage treatment plant can have positive environmental impacts by reducing water pollution and protecting aquatic ecosystems. However, if not properly managed, a sewage treatment plant can also have negative impacts such as odours, noise pollution and emissions of greenhouse gases.

Domestic wastewater treatment plants use natural biological processes to break down sewage and safely process harmful compounds. This reduces pollution and is vital for protecting the local flora and fauna.

Maintained in accordance with the manufacturers recommendations, most modern treatment plants have a long lifespan and are a solid investment for any property. At Tanks Direct, we offer a range of affordable treatment plants to suit any budget, but the premium Klargester BioDisc offers significant benefits with no noise, no odour and up to 7 years warranty*. 

Sewage treatment plants don’t require much upkeep, but it is important to keep them properly maintained and serviced. They will need emptying periodically, a process known as ‘desludging’, by a registered and licensed waste collection company. Treat your sewage treatment plant properly and it could last up to twenty years. If they are misused or not properly maintained, their lifespan will reduce significantly.

To keep your domestic sewage treatment plant working for as long as possible, pay attention to what you are flushing down the toilet and washing down the sink. Do not flush kitchen roll, food waste, nappies, baby wipes, grease, fats and oils or sanitary products down the drain and careful with the volume of cleaning agents and detergents you are using as these can sometimes overload the system. Areas with softer water will require weaker cleaning products than hard water areas. It’s also beneficial to get your sewage treatment plant regularly serviced, where a professional will come out and inspect your system and identify any potential issues before they get worse.

Although the two are often mistaken as the same thing, there are some distinct differences between the two. A sewage treatment plant creates a clean, environmentally friendly effluent which can be discharged directly to a watercourse. They typically require electricity to operate and need regular servicing and emptying. A septic tank only requires emptying once a year, doesn’t use any electricity, and doesn’t require servicing. However, they produce a very polluting waste product, which must be dispersed to a soak away and the septic pollutants go through further handling by the natural aerobic soil bacteria.

It is the level of the soil pipe entering the septic tank or treatment system.

If the flow from your system can not release without help, i.e. required to be uplifted you would need a pump to help with this.

Primary wastewater treatment

The primary treatment of wastewater removes material that will either float to the top or settle to the bottom. The wastewater is temporarily held in a settling tank, where the heavier solids sink to the bottom and lighter bits float to the surface. Once settled, these solids are held back while the rest of the liquid is moved through to the secondary phase of wastewater treatment.

Secondary wastewater treatment

A deeper and more rigorous secondary phase of wastewater treatment uses aerobic biological processes to substantially degrade the biological content of the waste, reducing common biodegradable contaminants down to safe levels. There are three ways to do this: biofiltration that uses filters to ensure that any additional sediment is removed from the wastewater, aeration which increases oxygen saturation by introducing air to wastewater and oxidation ponds that allow wastewater to pass through natural bodies of water for a set period before being retained for two to three weeks.

Tertiary wastewater treatment

Tertiary wastewater treatment aims to improve water quality to meet domestic and industrial standards. It involves removing pathogens to ensure water is safe for drinking

If you can’t connect to a public sewer, building regulations state you’ll need either a cesspool, septic tank or sewage treatment plant. At Tanks Direct, we offer a comprehensive choice from leading suppliers of waste water solutions such as Klargester, Rewatec, Harlequin or Clearwater.

Cesspools

A cesspool or cesspit is a sewage holding tank. The waste isn’t treated and there is no outlet (only vents to allow gas build-up to escape). Waste simply flows in to be stored and then, when the tank is full, a lorry tankers it away for disposal. A cesspool is a good option if the ground is unsuitable for waste to soak away or for sites that are close to drinking water supplies, as the waste is safely contained before being taken away.

Advantages of a cesspool:

• Cheap
• Low installation cost
• Low maintenance

Disadvantages of a cesspool:

• Sewage isn’t treated
• Requires regular emptying which can cost up to, £300 each time

Cesspools are banned in Scotland

Septic Tanks

Septic tanks can treat and discharge the liquid part of the sewage. Waste enters the first tank, where gravity separates the liquids from the solids. The liquid effluent flows out of the tank onto land, where it is cleaned as it percolates through the soil. Some sunken solids, or ‘sludge’, is broken down by natural bacteria, but the rest will need to be taken away by lorry. Septic tanks are suitable for single houses or small developments, but you’ll also need a drainage field that is porous enough to allow the waste to percolate through.

Advantages of a septic tank

• Relatively low installation cost
• Relatively low cost to run
• Only require emptying (or ‘desludging’) once or twice a year

Disadvantages of a septic tank

• Your ground must be porous enough to allow the liquid effluent to discharge
• New laws state septic tanks can no longer be discharged into a watercourse

Sewage Treatment Plants

Sewage treatment plants are suitable for everything - with small-scale, affordable domestic units available for single homes, to large-scale, commercial units available for large developments. They all work in the same way, creating an environment that allows helpful waste-degrading bacteria to flourish. Sewage treatment plants are the only option if you want to discharge your treated waste to a ditch or stream.

Advantages of a sewage treatment plants:

• Affordable
• Clean
• sewage treated to a higher standard so that it has minimal negative impact on the environment.

Disadvantages of a sewage treatment plants:

• Requires an electricity supply
• while the volume of solid matter is greatly reduced, it’ll still need pumping into a lorry for disposal.
• Require regular maintenance

 All commercial sewage treatment plants must adhere to general binding rules, a set of stringent regulations laid out by local authorities to meet both environmental, health and safety concerns. General binding rules stipulate several requirements when it comes to the placement of any commercial sewage treatment plant. It should be positioned a minimum distance away from buildings and water sources, especially if your business is in a protected area. The distance will depend on the size and capacity of your sewage treatment plant. It is strongly recommended that you seek professional advice on making your commercial sewage treatment plant compliant.

Depending on where you are in the UK, there are different rules relating to sewage treatment plants. You may need to apply for a Consent to Discharge licence from the Environment Agency, that says your wastewater is clean enough not to damage local wildlife. If you’re discharging less than 5,000 litres per day to surface water, you won’t need one.

You must apply for a permit:

• If you discharge more than 2,000 litres per day to the ground
• If you discharge to a well, borehole or other deep structure
• Where the tank is within an Environment Agency groundwater protection (SPZ) zone 1 (find out more at www.environment-agency.gov.uk).

If you are in any doubt whether you require a permit, check the government’s website here. 

It is highly recommended that you fully understand and adhere to all the regulations that will affect your installation and running of a sewage treatment plant. If you are the property owner where the tank is being installed, this is your sole responsibility, and you could be liable for heavy fines or repair costs if things are done incorrectly.

Sewage treatment plants work by separating wastewater from solid waste in a settlement chamber. Gravity causes the heavier, solid waste to sink to the bottom of the tank so that the wastewater can be treated before being released into the environment. The solid at the bottom of the tank, referred to as sludge, builds up reducing the available volume and space in the tank for the wastewater treatment process. Your tank will become less effective and will eventually fail causing problems.

For this reason, your sewage treatment tank will need emptying periodically ­– a process known as desludging. How often you de-sludge your tank will depend on the type of system you have as sludge build up varies between systems. We recommend you use a registered and licensed waste collection company who will be fully insured to handle the sludge. They will visit your site, remove the sludge from your sewage treatment plant tank, and take it away for disposal.

Although instructions are supplied with each of our products, installing a sewage treatment plant is no small feat and we do not recommend installing one yourself unless you are 100% confident you know what you’re doing. There are lots of health and safety issues to consider when excavating holes and if your sewage treatment plant is installed incorrectly you could find yourself in a nasty mess – both physically, financially, and legally.

Hiring a professional contractor to do the installation will give you complete peace of mind. Your sewage treatment plant will be installed safely, efficiently, and perhaps most importantly, it will be legally compliant. Be aware there are different rules relating to the installation of sewage treatment plants depending on whether you are based in England, Scotland, Wales, or Northern Ireland. You may need to apply for a Consent to Discharge from the Environment Agency – a licence that says that your wastewater is clean enough to release into the environment and not damage local wildlife.

It is strongly recommended that a suitably trained and qualified professional installs your sewage treatment plant. You could be faced with hefty repair costs, fines and even legal issues (that will be far greater than the cost of hiring a professional installer) if any part of your private sewage system is installed incorrectly. If you are confident you have the skills to do this yourself, you should have step-by-step instructions on how to do it from the manufacturer of your chosen tank, plus all the health and safety measures that should be taken. The following will give you a brief guide on what will be involved in the installation, but always ensure you adhere to the manufacturer’s guidance as some steps may vary.

Inspect tank for damage

Although our tanks will have been fully tested and checked before being dispatched to you, make sure to thoroughly inspect the tank for any damage caused during transportation as, once the tank is installed, we may not be able to accept your return.

Placing the tank

Ensure your hole is large enough for the both the tank and the recommended backfill. Prepare a base for the tank and carefully lower the tank into the hole, using the recommended lifting system, checking that the inlet and outlet orientation is correct. Ensure your tank is level and use the correct backfill, which might be concrete, gravel or sand, but check the manufacturer’s manual to see what they advise and follow their steps for adding the backfill.

Installing the inlet and outlet

Installing the inlet and the outlet should be straightforward, but it is always worth contacting a qualified plumber if you are unsure. Follow the manufacturer’s installation guide to connect the pipework. For easier maintenance access, some manufacturers advise the installation of an inspection chamber before and after the treatment to make life easier should any problems arise in the future.

Wire up the electrics

All electrical work should be conducted by a qualified electrician. The installation manual will detail what is required.

This is a very simplistic guide of what is required to install your sewage treatment plant. In addition to these steps, you may also need to install a soak away to complete your system.

A soakaway is a large hole dug into the ground, filled with stones, that manage the effluent and surface water by collecting, treating, and cleansing it, before letting it drain slowly back into the environment.

You do not necessarily need a soakaway for a sewage treatment plant ­– only for a septic tank. This is because the water released by a septic tank has only gone through one stage of treatment and is still hazardous to the environment. It is therefore important that water from a septic tank undergoes further treatment and cleansing in a soakaway before being safely released into the environment.

In a sewage treatment plant, the wastewater has already been through at least two stages of treatment and is therefore safe to be released directly back into the environment.

A soakaway, also known as an infiltration system, is a type of drainage system used to manage surface water runoff. It consists of a pit or trench filled with gravel, stone, or other porous materials that allow water to percolate through them and into the ground.

Soakaways are typically used in areas where the soil has good drainage characteristics, and they are often used to manage water from roof gutters, surface water drains, or other impermeable surfaces. The idea is that the water is directed into the soakaway, where it slowly percolates into the surrounding soil, reducing the amount of runoff and preventing flooding. 

It is advisable to get the buildup of sludge in your system cleared and the mechanical and electronic components serviced every six to twelve months.

A well-maintained sewage treatment plant should not give off any bad smells. They are designed to contain any naturally occurring odours that arise during the treatment process. If your sewage treatment plant has an unpleasant odour it is important to investigate the cause.

It could be that your tank is full and needs emptying. Check the levels of sludge in your tank and arrange for the tank to be emptied if necessary.

Clogged vents could also be the cause of odours. The vents in sewage treatment plants allow toxic and flammable methane gases present in the waste to escape. Check the vent isn’t clogged with waste, snow, ice, or an animal’s nest.

Bad smells can also be caused by contamination in your sewage treatment plant. Harsh chemicals, grease or fat will all interfere with the natural enzymes in your plant that work to break down the sewage. 

2015 saw the introduction of the General Binding Rules, designed to ensure that septic tanks and / or sewage treatment plants are installed and maintained to a required standard to minimise any adverse effects on the environment.

Since its introduction, further adaptations and additions have been made to the Rules and Government has recently announced the addition of two new rules for new discharges to take effect from 2nd October 2023.

The new rules are as follows:

Rule 22 – Use of combined outlets.

“A new discharge shall not use the same outlet as any other discharge if the combined volume of those discharges would exceed the volumetric general binding rules threshold for groundwater or surface water.”

Rule 23 – Discharge proximities.

“A new discharge shall not be made to a discharge point within 50 metres of any other exempt groundwater activity or water discharge activity.”

These new rules need to be considered when planning installation works in the latter part of 2023..

As always for further advice and guidance please contact our expert sales advisors on 01643 703358 or email sales@tanks-direct.co.uk

Commercial sewage treatment plants are large-scale waste removal systems for commercial properties that are either in a rural area or can’t be connected to the public sewage network. As they are entirely independent, they use a process that breaks down the waste into a clean product that can be directly discharged directly into the environment without harming the local habitat.

They function in the same way as domestic sewage treatment plants, but are designed to cope with a much higher volume of sewage. Commercial sewage treatment plants have a motor, powered by a generator or other electrical source, that circulates air within the system. Naturally occurring bacteria use this air to break down the wastewater in the system. This destroys the harmful substances in the waste, and, after several stages of treatment, the wastewater is clean enough to be pumped into the local environment.

Initially the waste goes through a pre-treatment stage, that removes large objects and solids. The waste is then pumped into a settlement zone, where liquids rise to the top and larger substances collect at the bottom thanks to their different densities. Bacteria starts to break down harmful substances and the sludge that forms at the foot of the tank is periodically removed. The remaining liquid is then ‘cleaned’ by a process known as ‘biological treatment’, where aerobic bacteria use the oxygen circulated by the motor to break down more harmful substances. Finally, the wastewater goes through a final round of cleansing to kill any remaining harmful substances that remain. This may involve chemicals to ensure the water is as clean as possible before it’s discharged. 

There are many reasons why you may need a commercial sewage treatment plant installed. If your business is in a rural location, you may be too far away to connect to the main public sewer system, or perhaps your access to the public sewers is blocked by a railway line. Commercial sewage treatment plants are also eco-friendly, so if your business is looking to become more eco-friendly, a commercial sewage system could be for you. The wastewater in a commercial sewage treatment plant is treated before being discharged, so there is no harm to the environment. They are also cost-effective. After the initial installation costs, commercial sewage treatment plants save money on bills paid to your local authority, making them an attractive long-term investment for many businesses. Commercial wastewater treatment plants can be set up quickly and easily. There are minimal odours and disruption to the running of a property and, if your system is properly maintained with regular servicing, your system will function for a long time.

Commercial sewage treatment plants function in much the same way as domestic sewage treatment plants but are designed to cope with a much higher volume of sewage. Commercial sewage treatment plants can service business and commercial properties where 50 or more people go to work. In contrast, domestic sewage treatment plants would usually only deal with household waste from up to four or five people.

You’ll want to choose a commercial sewage treatment system based on the size of the premises and the number of people using the facilities. But don’t go too small! It might save you money in the short term to buy a smaller system, but if you need to upgrade to a larger system in the future it will cost you.

It is important to keep any sewage treatment plant properly serviced and maintained, but with commercial sewage treatment plants professional maintenance may be required more often and require specialty maintenance to ensure everything is working as it should.

Sewage treatment plants are robust and effective and offer many benefits over some other methods of sewage treatment such as septic tanks and cesspits. But how much does a commercial sewage treatment plant cost? There are several costs to consider.

The sewage treatment plant

The price of your commercial sewage treatment plant will depend on a variety of factors. Get in touch and we will listen to understand your requirements and help you choose the best plant for your commercial premise.

Cost to install

The cost of installing your commercial sewage treatment plant will depend on whether you’re installing a brand new system or upgrading an existing one, as well as which plant you have chosen and where the plant is being installed. 

Annual service

You’ll need an annual service to ensure the ongoing performance of your commercial sewage treatment plant. The cost will depend on your equipment and location.

Emptying

Sewage treatment plants need to be periodically ‘de-sludged’.

If you have high levels of fats and grease you should use a grease trap. This would be fitted before discharging to the sewer.

Damage to sewer systems from FOGS can be extremely costly to local authorities and so there is much legislation surrounding best practices and correct disposal of fats, oils and grease, particularly for commercial food premises. If your property is connected to the mains drainage system and you’re serving hot food to the public or your staff, Building Regulations (document H, section 2.21) state you should have a grease trap or another effective means of grease removal fitted.

If you operate a commercial kitchen, such as a café, a pub, a takeaway service, a restaurant, a bakery or a staff canteen, a grease trap could help you to effectively manage your FOGS.  

It is estimated that nearly half a million tonnes of grease and fat enter the UK sewerage system each year, causing blockages and damage to pipes and wastewater equipment. Grease builds up inside pipes as it sticks to pipe walls and, if it enters a natural water course, fats, oils, grease and starch (FOGS) can seriously damage the environment. This damage is extremely costly to local authorities so proper management of FOGS is heavily enforced. Failure to effectively manage buildup could lead to heavy fines or even closure of commercial businesses.

Grease traps collect and reduce the number of FOGS entering the main sewers, helping to prevent drain blockages, bad smells and pest infestations. They can be located above or below ground, inside or outside your property, but positioned within the wastewater drain that connects your sinks and appliances to the sewer system. Fats and oils are much less dense than water, so they float to the top so, when wastewater enters a grease trap, it slows the water flow down significantly, separating solids to the bottom layer, wastewater in the middle and FOGS at the top. Wastewater is then allowed to flow into the sewer, while the FOGS are trapped.

Water and oil don’t mix. Animal fats and vegetable oils are much less dense than water, so they float to the top. In a grease trap, waste that flows through is slowed down and allowed a settlement period where solid waste sinks to the bottom and FOGS float to the top. A trap on the outlet prevents FOGS flowing through, permitting only the cleaner middle layer of wastewater to flow into the sewer system. Your grease trap needs to be properly maintained to ensure its continued effectiveness with regular cleaning required every two to four weeks by a licensed contractor.

Grease traps ensure grease and other build-up does not enter the main sewer system. Whether they’re attached to sinks, dishwashers or any other wastewater appliance that produce FOG, grease traps all perform the same basic function, with perhaps slightly different approaches. The size of the grease trap you’ll need will depend on the flow rate of the wastewater running through it — the higher the flow rate, the bigger the grease trap. At Tanks Direct we stock a wide range of grease traps in different size options to suit every flow rate.

Grease traps are a popular method of managing fats, oils and grease. At Tanks Direct we stock two types of grease traps for FOGS management — manual and automatic. Both do the same job of separating FOGS, solids and water within the tank, helping to prevent grease related issues. By slowing the flow of waste as it enters the grease trap and letting the wastewater cool, the elements naturally separate with solids sinking to the bottom, FOGS floating to the top and water remaining in the middle. What happens with each of these elements next is what differentiates a manual and automatic grease trap.

Manual grease traps are inexpensive and cheap to install. They simply contain and hold the FOGS until they are cleaned out. Automatic grease traps, also known as Automatic Grease Removal Units (or AGRUs), are more expensive than manual grease trap. However, automatic units systematically reheat and skim out the top layer of the tank where the FOGS sit, depositing it into a container where it can be disposed of easily. A separate filter catches any solid matter, which can be easily accessed and removed for disposal.

A sewage pump station is a storage chamber incorporating a sewage pump which transfer either the foul or surface water to a local drain, manhole, sewer or soakaway pit.

A pumping station is used where a normal gravity system cannot be, either because there is insufficient fall over a distance, or the common collecting point is lower than the discharge point.

To see our full range of pumping stations click - https://www.tanks-direct.co.uk/waste-water-tanks/sewage-pump-stations/c1011

A sewage pump is a submerged pump that moves sewage solids from one point to another, usually from a septic tank or sewage treatment plant to a percolation area or soakaway pit which is a distance away of uphill. Alternatively, it can be used to pump into a gravity flow sewer mains.

Sewage pumps are typically designed to operate intermittently rather than continuously. The duration a sewage pump can run continuously will vary. Smaller domestic sewage pumps are generally not built for continuous operation and are meant to pump wastewater as needed. Larger, industrial-grade pumps may have the capacity and durability to run continuously for extended periods, but even they may require periodic rest to prevent overheating and wear. Domestic sewage pumps are designed to handle typical household or small-scale sewage flows. If the pump has to handle a sudden surge or an unusually high volume of wastewater, it may not be designed for continuous operation under such conditions.

Continuous operation can lead to heat build-up in the pump's motor and components and overheating can cause damage or reduce the pump's lifespan. Pumps are usually designed with cooling mechanisms, but they may still need breaks to dissipate heat effectively. Regular maintenance can extend a pump's operational duration. Always consult the manufacturer's guidelines and specifications for your specific sewage pump. These guidelines often include recommended operating durations and intervals for rest. Following these recommendations is essential to ensure the pump's longevity and efficient operation.

The size of the pump required is down to the rise to main from the tank to the sewer, please call us for further help on this.

All Klargester pumping stations are suitable for pumping waste water effluent and sewage in accordance with BS 756-2. They are also designed in line with Building Regulations for Foul Drainage.

Your system size will depend on the type of waste you need to manage, your distance from the sewer and the difference in levels.

For expert advice, to help you select the correct system, please contact our specialist team. 

The key factors to size your system are as follows:

• Application: domestic, residential or commercial.
• Material application: sewage, effluent or surface water.
• Inlet depth (below ground level).
• Pumping distance and lift.
• Electrical supply.

To see our full range of pumping stations click - https://www.tanks-direct.co.uk/waste-water-tanks/sewage-pump-stations/c1011

The first cost to consider is for the sewage pump station itself. And this will vary greatly depending on the specific model you chose. Whether you need a single or double sewage pump station, you’ll find our prices at Tanks Direct are extremely competitive.

Then comes the cost of installation. If you are installing a pump for the first time in a space previously unprepared for installation, the cost will be higher than if you are replacing an existing pump. This is because all the additional preparation required has already been done. The location of your install could also have a bearing on the installation cost. If the site is awkward to get to or a difficult material to dig up, your costs will be higher.

You’ll also want to consider the ongoing maintenance costs of sewage pump stations. Regular servicing is essential to keep your equipment working as well as possible. Sewage pumping stations are subject to wear and tear and require regular servicing to operate effectively. Catching any issues early will minimise the risk of failure and help prevent costly repairs.

It is vitally important that your sewage pump station is regularly serviced and properly maintained. This will improve the day-to-day efficiency of your sewage treatment pump and help improve its lifespan. By inspecting the pump regularly, you can ensure all the components are working correctly

It is advisable to get your tank serviced once a year. Your tank will be emptied and cleaned, with any blockages removed. If any defects are detected during the service, it’s best to get faulty parts replaced as soon as possible. Failure to fix problems quickly can lead to major issues further down the line. For help and advice on how best to maintain your sewage treatment plant, please contact our friendly and knowledgeable team today.

Sewage pumping stations can vary in noise levels, but they generally produce some degree of noise. The noise from a sewage pumping station primarily comes from the mechanical equipment used to pump wastewater, such as pumps, motors, and control systems. These machines can generate a humming, buzzing, or whirring sound, which can be audible depending on several factors. Larger pumps typically produce more noise than smaller ones. Modern stations often incorporate soundproofing materials and construction techniques to help minimise noise pollution. Most sewage pumping stations are designed to operate around the clock, but you may find that noise is more noticeable during quiet times, such as during the night, when ambient noise levels are lower.

Local regulations and community planning may dictate the noise levels allowed for sewage pumping stations. Authorities often set limits to ensure that these facilities do not become a significant source of noise pollution in residential areas.

Sewage pumping stations are designed to transport and pump wastewater, which can contain organic matter and sewage, leading to the potential for odours. However, the intensity and prevalence of these odours can vary widely. Well-designed systems incorporate features to minimise odours, such as properly sealed access points and ventilation systems that help disperse or filter out odorous gases. Regular maintenance of these systems, including cleaning and inspection, is crucial to ensure their effectiveness in controlling odours. Smaller domestic sewage pumping stations may generate fewer odours compared to larger, industrial-scale facilities. This is because the volume of wastewater and the concentration of organic matter are typically lower in residential systems. Warm and humid weather can intensify odours, making them more noticeable, and windy conditions can disperse odours and make them less perceptible. If the pumping station is located close to your home or living areas, you may be more likely to detect any odours, especially if there are issues with the station's design, maintenance, or ventilation.

Many local regulations and building codes require domestic sewage pumping stations to incorporate odour control measures to minimise any potential nuisances to nearby residents. These measures may include odour-neutralising chemicals or filters in the ventilation system.

Tanks are sized on the number of people using the system, you should allow 150 litres per person multiplied by the number of people using the property to calculate your 24hr storage capacity.

For commercial properties please contact us, and we can help size this for you. 

No the tanks are supplied without an inlet hole, this is usually drilled on site however we do supply the seal to make the hole water tight and should you require us to drill this for you at the factory, we can offer this also.

In our 2” vortex range we use Hippo 50 pumps for up to 6m head and Hippo 100 pumps for up to 10m head. In our 2” macerator range we use Semison 125GR pumps, in our 2½” vortex range we use Semison 650 pumps and lastly in our 3” vortex range we use hippo 80-200. Details of which can be found either on our website or a copy can be sent across please call for more information.

Kingspan Klargester is one of the world's leading manufacturers of wastewater treatment systems, with over 65 years experience, within the industry, With a global reputation specialising in the manufacture of packaged pollution control products, Klargester has developed a range of innovative products, revolutionising methods of dealing with the treatment of sewage on sites where mains drainage is not available.

Their extensive range of Klargester products include Sewage Treatment plants, septic tanks, Cesspools, fuel and oil separators and grease traps.

Sludge builds up in septic tanks and it must be regularly removed to keep your Klargester tank working for as long possible. Tanks that are poorly maintained will need repairing or replacing sooner and could experience issues like bad smells, blocked pipes, cracked and blocked pipes, and failed motors and pumps. You may also notice soggy ground and pools of water forming around the drainage point, a sign that the effluent is not draining from the house quickly enough, are all indications that your Klargester septic tank is not coping.

You should get the sludge that builds up in your septic tank removed, a process called ‘desludging’ before it exceeds the maximum capacity. We recommend your Klargester tank should be desludged a minimum once a year and always ensure that the company you use to remove the sludge is a registered waste carrier. 

The BioDisc uses a Rotating Biological Contractor (RBC) system which includes three stages to treat waste water. After the water has passed through a primary settlement tank, where heavy solids settle to form a sludge in the bottom of the tank, it moves into the Biozone for breaking down by microorganisms on the RBC. Suspended solids return to the primary settlement zone, and the liquor is transferred to the second stage Biozone for further treatment. Any remaining solids are settled out in the final settlement tank, leaving the remaining effluent clean enough to be discharged into a watercourse.

If you are planning to install a new septic tank, you will need planning permission from the local authority. This applies to residential sites, as well as commercial. If you already have an existing septic tank installed, either at home or as part of your business premises, you won’t need planning permission if you are simply intending to replace it. It doesn’t matter how old your existing septic tank system is — you can have it upgraded or replaced entirely, and you won’t require planning permission from your local authority.

Septic tanks sit underground and release wastewater slowly into the surrounding environment. For this reason, they must be installed at least seven metres away from a house or ‘habitable property’ and at least 50 metres away from any water sources. It is very important that you comply with all regulations for both health and safety and environmental reasons. You will also need to check if you need a permit, which usually depends on where you intend to release your wastewater.

Several factors can affect the lifespan of your pump. For example, if you live in a hard water area, where there are higher quantities of dissolved minerals like magnesium and calcium running through your system, your shower pump is likely to age quicker. This is because when heated, dissolved calcium reacts to form solid carbon carbonate that can build up in your pump — the same scale you see in your kitchen kettle. The intensity it is used will also affect how long it lasts. Heavy, intensive use is likely to decrease its lifespan quicker compared to light, occasional use. However, as a generalised and rough estimation, it is expected that an average single shower pump will last around eight years.

Stuart Turner pride themselves on the quality of their products, with stringent quality control operations in place to ensure the longevity and durability of their pumps. They provide a wide range of water boosting systems from simple pumps to packaged pump systems for large buildings, all designed to last for many years without requiring much maintenance.

Stuart Turner manufacture a wide variety of pumps that provide solutions to various problems associated with low water pressure. From single shower pumps to large water pressure booster systems for high occupancy buildings, you’ll find the perfect Stuart Turner water pump for your needs at Tanks Direct.

Our range of Stuart Turner’s Mainsboost systems deliver improved performance from unvented water cylinders and combination boilers. If your incoming mains pressure is greater than 2 bar, but the flow is insufficient, the quiet Mainsboost vessel systems are ideal, with no electrical supply required. The Mainsboost Flomate system is designed to be connected directly to the incoming mains to provide a regulated flow of water and can be installed discreetly within a standard kitchen cupboard unit. If you’re looking for a slimline solution, the innovative Mainsboost iBoost system will fit within a standard 600 mm cabinet. Stuart Turner’s Wasteflo range simply and efficiently removes wastewater, with slimline macerators for toilets and lifting stations that allow you to create a shower room, kitchen, or utility room anywhere. We also stock the Stuart Turner Pulse collection, a range of commercial circulators for HVAC applications. If you need any help or advice on which Stuart Turner pump is right for you, please contact our friendly team.

There are lots of factors that might affect the cost of replacing or installing a new septic tank. Costs can be high depending on where you live, the type of ground you’re installing the septic tank into, and many other factors. After you have selected and paid for your chosen septic tank, the installation cost could be anywhere from £2,000 to £4,000.

With replacement septic tanks, a lot of the infrastructure like pipework, plumbing and foundations will already be there – helping to keep costs down. Remember, though, that you’ll need to empty out all the sludge that’s built up over time from the old tank and rinse it until it’s safe enough to remove to the waste disposal site. New septic tank installations will require new plumbing, pipework, and foundations, as well as somewhere to dispose of the soil or ground dug up. Installing your septic tank could take anywhere from three to seven days, all which will be factored into the price.

A Klargester septic tank disposes of the sewage and wastewater from your property. It collects the wastewater from your property and separates the solids from the liquids, and then any leftover effluent is discharged into a drainage field or soakaway.

There are three different types of septic tanks, each with their own benefits and suitability to different properties and individual requirements.

The Alpha Klargester septic tank

One of the most popular Klargester septic tanks, the Alpha tank is light, watertight, and particularly strong. Thanks to its shape the tank is easy to handle and install and has a subtle visual impact that many people find desirable.

The Sigma Klargester septic tank

Light, robust, and chemically resistant, the Sigma Klargester septic tank is one of Klargester’s easiest tanks to install. The reduced excavation costs make the Sigma Klargester a popular choice.

Gamma Klargester septic tanks

If you’re looking for a more environmentally friendly choice, look no further than the Gamma Klargester septic tank. It is easy to install, durable, strong and lightweight.

Manufactured in England, Enduramaxx is one of the leading manufacturers of plastic tanks with in the UK.

With a vast range of products, ranging from Rainwater harvesting, Agricultural, potable, non-potable, chemical and many more.

We do supply footbaths for your cattle, we even have them for the sheep and us too!

Whilst we don't offer installation we can put you in touch with an approved installer for your area. We also offer an installation guide should this be something you could take on yourself.

You can find the galvanished tank installation guide here

The manufacturers of our tanks hold the following accreditation:

• BSEN1090 UKCA and CE Mark (including welded components). 
• WRAS Approval 2007053 for use with UK mains systems (non-wholesome).
• ISO9001 for both Design and Production.
• ISO14001.
• Our class-leading steel covers are compliant with 1999/03 Water Supply Regulations relating to necessary air gaps and backfilling risks.

The Anti Algae cover is a woven fabric material cover (similar to tarpaulin) to discourage the growth of Algae within the water in your tank. Not entirely water proof, but certainly water resistant.

The galvanised cover is just what it says on the tin (excuse the metal pun). It's a supported galvanised steel roof, waterproof and strong enough to support the addition or ladders e.t.c that may be required for access.

These are the best possible cover available when security is essential for your water storage..

• A galvanised steel cover can be offered on tanks up to 48ft in diameter (14.63 metres).
• They've been designed with the UK wind and snow loadings in mind, so they can cope. 
• As with all Evenproducts tanks they're designed with the end user in mind, with it's simple and rather intuitive installation process. There is an installation video for the galvanised cover here
• This variety of cover complies with the Health & Safety & Air Gap regulations.
• This particular cover arrives complete with two access hatches and a ball valve bracket.
• Can be powder coated to match the outside of your tank.
• Enclosures & Raised Ball Valve Housing among the accessories available with this tank.
• Such is the level of security and build quality of the roof it can actually help with compliance in relation to liability insurance.

No problem this is a common use for these tanks, please let us know what connection it is you require and we will endeavour to provide it, there are also a wealth of adaptors available for our outlet sizes if you have more than one intended use for your tank, e.g. fire fighting and filling sprayers/bowers.

It's crucial to establish a routine that aligns with the specific needs of your farm. Regularity is key, with a general guideline suggesting that checking and cattle drinker troughs at least once a week is a good starting point. This routine maintenance ensures that your animals have access to clean and fresh water consistently.

Consider factors such as the size of the trough, the number of animals using it, and prevailing weather conditions. High-traffic troughs or those in areas with concentrated animal activity may necessitate more frequent attention. Additionally, monitor water quality, checking for signs of algae, sediment, or debris. If present, prompt cleaning becomes imperative to maintain the health and well-being of your livestock. The frequency of emptying water troughs can also be influenced by external elements like weather. In hot conditions, troughs may require more frequent checks to prevent algae growth and guarantee an ample supply of fresh water. During freezing temperatures, monitoring and preventing ice build-up becomes essential to ensure continuous access to water.

Tailor your approach based on the unique characteristics of your farm, the size of the troughs relative to the number of animals, and any ongoing health concerns within the herd. By adopting a proactive stance and incorporating regular checks into your routine, you not only safeguard the health of your livestock but also contribute to the overall efficiency of your farm operations. Stay attentive to the condition of the water and troughs, adjusting your maintenance schedule as needed.

We work with the only UK manufacturer type to hold both BSEN1090 Class 2 (structural approval) including welded elements and WRAS approval (not drinking water approval but approval for use with UK mains). 

Our steel roof is the easiest to install and the most structurally safe. The quality of the components we use is higher than those used by other manufacturers from the fixings through to the liners in the tank. Along with our manufacturers we have a commitment to continuous improvement and sustainability, not just with ourselves but for our customers too through our products.

All of the steel used in the tanks from our manufacturers is traceable and the records are held on file so that they can be produced as and when required. All of the base materials used in the products have been tested and assessed to our manufacturers exacting standards, only once they've passed these can they be used.

Should you have any questions about your product, need spares or anything, we always be more than happy to help.

Anti Algae (AA Cover) - A Woven fabric cover to aid in the prevention of algae within the tank, these covers are not impermeable so there will be some water that enters the tank. There is some maintenance involved with these covers and they also need to be removed on occasion to prevent them being damaged or lost.

Steel Covers - As with the PVC cover these are a non permeable solution (possibility of a small amount of water getting through) almost no maintenance required though. These come into play more when the site has the potential for public access to stop intruders, or the general public, gaining entry to the tank. They may also help with the cost of liability insurance.

The individual panels are powder coated in a dark green colour as standard (other colours can be quoted on request)

Powder coating is mainly used for 2 reasons. 

Firstly aesthetic – if it needs to blend in to the background (for example is really common for Golf Courses) or to support planning applications where it could be considered an eyesore. It could even just be down to personal preference

Secondly for additional protection – it adds another layer of protection against the elements and rust, it's commonly used (and suggested) for use near coastlines, even within 5-10km where the atmosphere could still have a high level of salinity. Also for heavily industrial chemical environments.

We offer galvanised tanks from 2,000 up to 500,000 litres online as these are the most common sizes, but we can speak to the manufacturer about a larger volume should you have a requirement for it. If you do or if there are any unusual requirements for your tank, please fill in the galvanised tank enquiry form here we'll get in touch with the manufacturer and come back to you with what we can offer.

A Bunded Oil Tank is simply a tank within a tank. The fuel is stored in the inner tank and the outer tank acts as a failsafe so that in the event of a spillage, excess fuel will collect in the bund. They are a requirement at commercial, industrial and institutional premises.

Unfortunately not. The pumps and ancillary equipment fitted to these tanks are suitable only for use with Diesel or Biodiesel, as per product specifications. Dispensing a non-approved fuel from this equipment could result in serious injury or death.

Diesel (D) to British Standard BS2869. Additionally, all Fuel Stations, are also suitable for the storage and dispensing of BioDiesel with a bio-element of up to 8% concentration.

Water pressure is the force water that is pushed through water pipes into premises. This pressure determines how quickly water flows from your taps, shower heads and appliances such as washing machines and dishwashers.

If the water pressure in your household pipes are low, then water will flow slowly out of your taps or shower, taking it longer to fill up a sink, bath or shower. This is especially true for an upstairs bathroom (after all, the water may need to travel upwards against gravity to get to the source)

Water pressure is measured in bar or psi (pounds per square inch). One bar of water pressure is needed to raise water 10 metres high, so the higher the water must travel, the lower the water pressure will be.

Gravity creates pressure naturally, so when your water comes to you, it is already pressurized. In some cases, booster stations help to maintain the pressure throughout the water lines. If your water comes from a private well, then your water is pressurized through a tank that maintains a range of pressure

There are differences between water pressure and water flow. Water flow is the volume of water delivered and is measured in litres per minute. Water pressure is the force or speed the water is delivered. Both are affected by the size and condition of the pipe work the water is flowing through.

Due to regulation, you cannot pump directly onto a mains water line for the whole property, without storing water and creating an overflow. To achieve this we supply the boosters systems with break tanks, as they are commonly known, to compliantly store the water to act as a reservoir and which the pump draws from.

Compact Units

If you use lots of appliances at the same time you water pressure will reduce, such as dishwashers and washing machines. If you have an older property, you may find your water pipe is smaller than those used in modern houses. Smaller pipes supply less water and can reduce pressure and flow.

When water pressure in your house is low, it is most likely the water pressure coming into your house is lower than the property requires. However, if you notice that the low pressure is only to just one or a few appliances then it could be an issue with that fixture, or a pipe that runs into your property.

The amount of water pressure in your home may vary depending on the time of the day and the ground level of your property. Check that the water meter valve and the main shut off valve are fully opened.

However, while these factors play a part, your water authority is required to supply a minimum of 0.7 bar of pressure. If the mains pressure into your property is consistently low, you may need to fit a booster pump to your plumbing system.

To see our full range of booster pump sets, please click - Booster Pump Sets

It is possible to boost mains water pressure. To do this a booster pump can be fitted to the mains cold water supply. In compliance with water fitting regulations, this is up to 12 litres per minute. Generally, a mains booster pump can improve the performance of all the water appliances and fixtures in your home.

There are two reasons why water may need to be boosted: (1) to give a better flow and pressure at the draw-off point in a domestic situation, or (2) as a method of raising the water supply in high-rise buildings above the height that the mains will supply.

A booster pump set, helps to get to optimum pressure within the current system, so you should get constant water pressure whether you are downstairs in the kitchen or up on the 3rd floor having a shower.

‘Packaged’ pumping sets or Booster Sets are installed consisting of dual pumps (unless single pump is selected, then this would only be one pump) to overcome the problem of failure of (or the need to renew) one of the pumps. The second pump also assists at times of high demand on the system, cutting in as necessary. To prevent pump seizure and stagnation of water, the pumps should be designed to work alternately. Two types of system will be found: those using pressure-sensing devices and those using float switches.

Break tanks are used to help boost pressure within a water system, where the current water pressure is not strong enough to supply the requirements of the building. Typically, break tanks are fitted with an air gap between the inlet and maximum water level to prevent backflow into the mains water supply.

To determine the size of the break tank required, there are a few things to consider.

Occupancy of the building

This is a big factor, as you need to understand how much water is required within the property. For example a hotel requires more water storage per bed space than a hostel.

Below are some examples of recommended minimum storage levels for each type of premises.

Hotel - 200 Litres per bed space

Office without Canteen - 40 Litres per employee

Office with Canteen - 45 Litres per employee

Restaurant - 7 litres per meal

Primary School - 15 litres per pupil

Secondary School - 20 Litres per pupil

Nursing Home - 120 Litres per bed space

(Source: BS EN 806 Part 2)

Please consider when using this calculation, the peak occupancy of the building. 

When sizing for a domestic building, a rough guide of 90 litres per bed space should be sufficient, however high-end properties may require additional storage. 

Another consideration would be the expected peak flow of the premises. This is calculated when sizing a booster set. In determining the peak flow rate, we must consider how much water storage must be provided to facilitate this flow rate.

Tanks Direct recommend that a minimum of 15 minutes' storage, according to the peak flow rate of the booster set, should be provided in a booster set break tank within a commercial installation. For example, a booster set with a peak design flow rate of 1.1 litres/second, or 66 litres/minute, requires a break tank with a capacity of at least 990 litres. 

Other factors such as the tank inlet flow rate and the usage patterns of the building should also be taken into account - buildings with a poor rate of mains water supply will require greater storage. This will also be influenced by the siting of the break tank - a tank on the ground floor of a building will fill at a higher rate than a tank on an upper floor or in the roof space. Siting a tank in the roof space of a building is likely to necessitate a larger storage volume.

For this, we would require a breakdown of the cold water outlet for the whole property, i.e. 2 W/C’s, 4 Wash hand basins and a shower. Once we have calculated the building water demand, we can then specify the right storage tank, this is an industry standard of a capacity to cope with a 10-minute run time at full demand, most 3-4 bedroom properties for example work out at around 250L.

For most single property installation, pressure isn’t a huge concern, as low head booster systems that run up to 3 bar will produce more than sufficient pressure for a 2-story property.

This depends on a couple of factors, the demand of the building if you want it sharing across 2 pumps, but also the importance of the water supply, for example, manufacturing facilities who need wash down cannot afford the downtime of a single pump etc. With a twin pump system, you can share the duty across 2 pumps, which both pumps would run at 50% of total duty, or on duty standby, where each pump would be capable of 100% of total duty.

This is a common issue, which is why we offer a compact solution as the Flyvar Booster system which is a compact system where the pump(s) are in the tank to save space, these can also be installed externally with the addition of an inverter housing cover, to protect it from the elements.

This is a service we can carry out, however with the use of modern technically, we only require the standard set of information, and then just basic measurements of the space it is going into, widths of doors and room space etc, all of this we can now do with the use of online video calls and pictures.

Commissioning would be recommended. These are specialist systems and without a commissioning visit, there is no peace of mind with the end user that the warranty as not been affected due to incorrect installation. Incorrect operation is  easily done if the system is not correctly commissioning, so this is a service we offer ourselves, so there is a clear line of liability if something was to go wrong with the set, this protects everyone.

Head is the height in which the pump is lifting the waste, measured from cover level of the pump station, to the cover level of the discharge manhole. With this measurement we can ensure we supply a pump powerful enough to lift the waste up that high. We will need to know this and also the distance that it is pumping to make sure the pump quoted is suitable.

An automatic pump is a pump that will automatically turn itself on and off as the liquid level rises and falls. These pumps are usually longer lasting as they do not burn out but switch off automatically if there is no liquid to pump therefore, they do not run dry.

If you have an application where the risk of blockages that could enter the drain run is higher than usual, for example if the property is rented, tenants could unwillingly block the pump, this is also a problem if it is an apartment block as you wouldn’t be able to source who was responsible for blocking It, but everyone would need to pay their share to fix it.

Also, macerator pumps, because of how they cut through the waste, they can pump a much higher head (vertical distance), so when compared to vortex pumps, if you have anything over 10m, you will need to be selecting macerator pumps. Always check the pump flow curves for your application or you can call to speak to one of our technical team if you want to be sure the pumps will do the task at hand.

If you are concerned about the risk of blockages but also need a flow rate which macerator pumps can’t provide, or even if it’s purely just a faster flow rate you need, a larger 65mm or 80mm pump will be able to achieve this, calculating a specific flow rate to your application is difficult and would be best speaking to a member of our technical team to help specify the right pumps for your station.

Waste pumps and your wastewater system in general need regular servicing to keep it in working order. A general desludging of your system and a check of the components such as the sewage pump will keep the sewage treatment system in good working order for longer.

Generally, a good rule of thumb for servicing your sewage pump would be every 1 to 2 years or every time you empty your septic tank. It is a good idea to get it checked regularly to avoid a costly replacement further down the line.

When you consider all the pumping that occurs globally, whether in large industrial plants or in domestic heating systems, this accounts for almost 20% of the world's energy consumption. Because of this there is a huge opportunity in the pumping industry to make a significant contribution to using our energy resources efficiently. In pumping applications where the duty required is not constant, it is highly likely that installing a variable speed pump will result in significant energy savings - likely to be between 30% and 50% in many applications.

Other benefits of variable speed pumps include:

1. Improved reliability

Because variable speed pumps run at speeds below their maximum, there is a reduction in wear, particularly in mechanical seals.

2. Improved control

Variable speed pump controller can monitor small variations in pressure and make adjustments accordingly. This also means there is less liklihood of sudden changes in flow or pressure.

Variable speed pumps should be used in any installation where the pump duty is not constant. If a pump duty is constant a fixed speed pump may be the most cost-effective option.  However, even in fixed duty applications there may be an advantage to running a pump below its maximum speed. A motor running at 80% of its maximum speed uses 48% less energy.

1. Vibrations

Although running pumps below their maximum speed will tend to reduce overall system noise, altering the speed of a pump may result in structural resonances that would not occur at the pump's maximum speed. This may cause vibration which can be harmful to equipment and cause an increase in noise at certain frequencies. There are a number of products that help to alleviate these potential issues.

2. Higher initial cost

Because of the added complexity of an inverter drive, variable speed pumps and systems which include variable speed pumps will cost more initially than a fixed speed equivalent. However, this additional cost is invariably outweighed by the long-term energy cost saving.

Here at Tanks Direct we have a huge selection of water pumps available.

Wastewater or sewage pumps are used to move wastewater, or water that contains solids and contaminants, from one place to another. They are commonly used in various industrial, commercial, and residential applications to move wastewater from a source to a sewage treatment plant or to another location entirely.

Booster pump sets are used to increase water pressure. Booster pumps work by taking in water at a low pressure and increasing it to a higher pressure with a centrifugal impeller. Booster pump sets are ideal for areas where the water pressure is too low to provide adequate water flow.

GRP pump enclosures are made from a composite material of glass reinforced polyester (GRP). Requiring little maintenance, GRP pump enclosures are highly durable and offer excellent protection from the elements and corrosion.

Submersible pumps are designed to operate while completely submerged in a fluid.

Swimming pool and garden pumps are used to circulate water in swimming pools, hot tubs, water features, and gardens. They keep the water free of debris and maintain the desired water temperature. The pump typically pulls water from the pool or garden and pushes it through a filtration system before returning it to the pool or garden.

Submersible pumps are very good at dealing with groundwater flooding and rainfall. Designed to operate underwater, they work by using electric motors to draw water from flooded areas and divert it away from buildings and other areas that need to remain dry. Submersible pumps are commonly used to drain water from flooded basements and other areas that are prone to flooding.

We stock a wide range of submersible pumps, that are easy to install and maintain. They can be connected to pipes and other water control systems, allowing for quick and easy water removal in the event of flooding. They are designed to operate in a wide range of temperatures and conditions and are typically constructed from corrosion-resistant materials that can withstand long periods of exposure to water. Our submersible pumps are often equipped with protective measures, such as float switches and check valves, to prevent any damage to the motor or pump should the water start to rise too quickly.

Also known as sump pumps, submersible pumps are a type of centrifugal pump that can be operated when fully submerged underwater. Sealed so the electrics are protected, our range of submersible pumps can be used for a variety of applications including puddle drainage, swimming pool pumps, pond and water feature pumps, and drainage pumps.

Choosing the right water pump for your needs is essential for effective water maintenance. We stock a wide range of water pumps, so first you need to determine the type of water pump you need.

Wastewater or sewage pumps move wastewater from one part of a system to another. We offer a range of wastewater pumps in different capacities and configurations and come with a variety of features.

If you live in an area with low water pressure, our booster pump sets can increase the water pressure in your home or office.

Chemical pumps are designed to move fluids containing hazardous chemicals without risking exposure or damage to the pump or surrounding equipment.

Pressurised pumps are used to transfer fluids that require pressurisation.

Made from a composite material of glass reinforced polyester, GRP pump enclosures are highly durable and offer excellent protection from the elements.

Submersible pumps are a type of water pump that can be submerged underwater to pump out water. This type of pump is typically used in flooded areas or to pump out water from ponds, wells, or other water sources.

Swimming pool and garden pumps circulate water in a swimming pool or pond. The pumps work by creating suction to draw water from the pool or pond, and then using an impeller to push the water through a filter.

Our flood kits have what you need in the event of a flood.

This depends on your existing pump and the type of installation you have or are planning on. The vertical Hippo 50 has a vertical port discharges via a 2” female port and the horizontal Hippo 50 discharges via a horizontal 2” female port but is also DN50 flanged

A grinder pump takes the wastewater from the holding tank, grinding any waste into a fine slurry and then pumps it into a sewage treatment plant. They can pump over much longer distances but at a slower rate because they are high pressure and low volume pumps.

To see our grinder pumps click - https://www.tanks-direct.co.uk/semisom-125-gr-automatic-submersible-grinder-pump/p5628

 A submersible pump means that the pump needs to be submerged or covered in liquid specifically the type specified on the pump such as water, wastewater, sewage etc.

Macerator pumps are used only for heads higher than 10m and with a low flow rate when you have a discharge rate restriction imposed by the water authority who own the sewer you discharging into.

If a booster or compact set is being housed externally, you will need an enclosure to protect the inverter from the elements so anything electronic needs to be protected by an enclosure of some sort, never leave the booster set to face the elements

You require at least 500mm above the break tank so you can service it and inspect it when required. Also, a booster just needs to be installed in a maintainable space so that the inverters can be reviewed if needed via clear walkways and facing into the room, not tucked away down the side of a plant room.